Saturday, May 28, 2005

Grandpa's Garden, Pt. 1

We live on the 3rd floor of a building above 3 generations of a Portuguese family, the elders of which are our landlords. We've been like part of the family pretty much since the day we moved in. This arrangement has many perks, but among other things it means that "Grandma" frequently sends up homemade treats for us to eat. It also means that "Grandpa" very generously lets us have a portion of his garden to grow our annual assortment of herbs and vegetables. This is a real honor, because Grandpa is a pretty legendary gardener within the local Portuguese community. Every year his garden turns out beautifully, and every year the local Portuguese men line up to check out his garden and try and glean some secrets from him.

We started to plant the garden about a month ago. We only planted some herbs, some lettuces, and some Swiss chard. Then we got rained out for the next three weeks. This morning we were finally able to plant our tomatoes (including 3 varieties of heirloom tomatoes from the Montreal Botanical Garden's plant sale), our peppers, an eggplant, and some more herbs.


La Forchetta's Apricot Crostata

Apricot Crostata
Originally uploaded by ajkinik.
OK, OK, so we didn't actually make this one... So what?

If you're one of our Montreal readers, or if you're going to be in Montreal soon, you can get your very own at La Forchetta. Their Apricot Crostata is fresh, delicious, and a steal. All you have to do is warm it up in the oven for 5 minutes in a 350 degree pre-heated oven. The flavor really comes alive if it's just baked a little. Serve it with a nice espresso.

La Forchetta, 234 Laurier W., 279-9090.


Friday, May 27, 2005

The List, Pt. 1: A-M

Gibeau Orange Julep

“…an endless banquet” Montreal Food Guide.

$ Inexpensive
$$ Mid-range
$$$ Expensive

AEB indicates a tried & true favourite

Dates in brackets indicate the last time we visited the restaurant in question. They also give some idea of how essential we find these places.

All phone numbers are area code (514) numbers unless otherwise noted.

Abu Elias, 733 Côte-Vertu, 747-7754 (Ville St-Laurent)—A combination Lebanese butcher’s shop, grocery store, and grill that serves up some truly exceptional grilled meat sandwiches. Recommended: filet mignon, kafta (the best we’ve yet encountered in Montreal), and sojouk, a spicy homemade Armenian-Lebanese sausage. Ridiculously cheap, too, with most sandwiches running a mere $2.49-$3.49. Get yours “all-dressed.” $ (2013) AEB

UPDATED!  Adonis, 2001 Sauvé W., 382-8606 (Ahuntsic)—Easily the city’s largest Middle Eastern specialty food store, Marché Adonis is also one of the city’s very best specialty food stores of any kind. Their selection is dizzying, their prices are very competitive.  Now with locations across the metropolitan region, including one on Ste-Catherine near Atwater (2173 Ste-Catherine W.).

Akhavan, 6170 Sherbrooke W., 485-4744 (NDG)—Nowhere near as big as Adonis, but still impressive, Akhavan is the Iranian/Persian answer to its Lebanese superstore counterpart. We’re particularly fond of Akhavan’s selection of basmati rices, their nuts (very fresh), their dried fruits (everything you’d expect from a top-notch Iranian grocer), and their baked goods, especially their delectable bamyeh, their honey-soaked honey beignets.

Amelio’s, 201 Rue Milton, 845-8396 (Downtown/McGill Ghetto)—I’ve been going here since it was on Lorne and although my tastes have changed over time, Amelio's pizzas still make me a little nostalgic. It’s a very saucy (especially the vegetarian) and very cheesy pizza, and it's certainly not claiming to be an authentic Neapolitan pie, but it still hits the spot every now and then. Recommended: vegetarian (kind of like having a cheese-topped ratatouille on a pizza crust) and the sausage pizza with additional mushrooms. $ (2010)

Un Amour des Thés, 1224 avenue Bernard, 279-2999 (Outremont)—Outremont’s specialty tea, well, specialist. Nice store with a nice selection of teas, teapots, teacups, and other tea-related accessories.

Andes, 4387 St Laurent Blvd., 848-1078 (Plateau)—renamed Sabor Latino.  Check out the listing in the N-Z part.

l’Anecdote, 801 Rachel E., 526-7967 (Plateau)—Nice ‘50s-style diner which serves good breakfasts and casse-croute fare for lunch and dinner that’s a cut above. Recommended: breakfasts, club sandwich. $ (2013)

Ange & Ricky, 195 Jarry E., 385-6094 (Jarry Park/Villeray)—A few years ago, Ange & Ricky was one of our proudest discoveries:  real Haitian soul food in a space that was part épicerie, part casse-croûte, and all heart.  We're sorry to report that things have changed at Ange & Ricky.  Any signs of it having been an épicerie are almost totally gone, the atmosphere isn't nearly as buoyant as it once was (although Ange is just as gracious and charismatic as she ever was), and, most importantly, the food isn't as captivating as it once was.  The tassot has remained reliable over the years, and the dirty rice and spicy cabbage salad are still good, but the fried chicken has become forgettable, there's no sign of any Haitian-style cashew pralines any longer, and, strangely, French fries have begun to appear on some of Ange & Ricky's "cuisine santé" platters.  Want to relive the glory days?  Check out this review.   Who knows, maybe things will turn around.  After all, it has been a devastatingly difficult year for Haiti and for the Haitian community at large.  $ (2010)

Arlequino, 1218 Drummond, 868-1666 (Downtown)--Arlequino is a new-fangled pizzeria whose  downtown location, over-the-top style, and deluxe pizzas (lobster, anyone?) make for a strange atmosphere.

Arouch, 917 Rue de Liège W., 270-1092 (Park Extension; + other locations, including one in Concordia's Molson School of Business building)—Located in the little-know Little Belgium section of Park Ex, this here’s the Montreal location of an Armenian lahmadjoune operation whose HQ is in Laval. Their flatbreads are very good, especially the one with cheese and roasted red pepper paste, but this is a bright, clean, modern operation—one with all the charm of your local Subway. Our #1 pick for lahmadjoune still tends to be Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan, a.k.a. Chez Apo (see below), but if you’re in the neighborhood and you want to try yet another take on Armenian flatbread, Arouch is a good bet. $ (2007)

Arthur Quentin, 3960 St. Denis, 843-7513 (Plateau)—One of the city’s premier gourmet kitchen supply stores, Arthur Quentin also has high-end dinnerware and silverware, as well as home furnishings. A lot of people we know are afraid of this store because they just assume that it’s snobby and that the prices are way out of their range. Actually, the service is very friendly and the prices can be quite reasonable, depending on what you’re looking for (for instance, you can get a lovely Opinel pocket knife for $10-15). Website: HYPERLINK ""

l'Artisan Piadineria, 3421 St-Denis, 508-1433 (Plateau)--I'm not sure we were in desperate need of a piadineria in this town (we can hardly get pizza right), but such is life in Montreal.  You can't always get what you want, but, if you try sometimes, you just might find you get a piadina--an artisanal one, at that.  Anyway, the question is, what is a piadina?  Well, as you you might have gathered from some of the other reviews, it's a flatbread native to Naples and environs.  It's cooked up fresh on a griddle and is then used to envelop some savoury fillings (meat, cheese, greens, etc.)--kind of like an Italian wrap.    L'Artisan Piadineria has too many toppings, too many options, for my liking.  Scale back the menu and go with straight-up hits, would be my advice to the management.  My advice to you is to go with one of the daily specials.  Also, think juicy.  The flatbread itself is pretty dry.  It benefits from a choice of fillings that is going to be both a tasty and a juicy combination.  Unfortunately, many of the options on the menu aren't going to deliver on that promise, but, then again, many others will.  Our best bet was a super juicy sausage number that was called the Napoli, or the Neapolitan, or something like that.  We figured it had to be good, given the provenance of the piadina, and it was. $ (2013)

Atlantique, 5060 Côte-des-Neiges, 731-4764 (Côte-des-Neiges)--We've been familiar with this boucherie & delicatessen for years--in addition to a real Central European-style deli counter, they've got a meat counter, a fish counter, and an extensive prepared foods counter, and the store is literally chock-a-block with all your favorite European specialty food products, with an emphasis on Central European and Northern European items. What we didn't know until recently is that they actually serve diners inside the store at small tables and a small counter, and that they have a roast pork & sauerkraut special on Mondays that's redolent of caraway and juniper berries, and all the better for it. Also, Atlantique ranks with the very best specialty food stores when it comes to Christmas, and their small fresh fruit section near the front counter always has some delectable surprises.  $-$$ (2014)

Atwater Market, 138 Atwater Ave. (Little Burgundy-St.-Henri)—Definitely the most frou-frou of Montreal’s four major municipal markets due in large part to its proximity to Westmount and NDG, which means that the prices are a little higher and the atmosphere is a little less multicultural than Jean-Talon Market. That said, it’s hard the beat the beauty of Atwater’s market hall and its location along the Lachine Canal, and though we favor Jean-Talon, we make a point of going to Atwater Market whenever we’re in the vicinity.  Now featuring a new-school outdoor food court, featuring such recent hits as the Satay Bros. stand.

Backroom Records & Pastries, 5912 St-Urbain (“Back alley entrance only!”), 495-8046 (Mile End)—They don't seem to carry as many pastries as they used to, but you never know.   At least they still have a fantastic selection of vinyl-pressed recordings to check out if there's no food. $ (2014)

La Baie des Fromages, 1715 Jean-Talon E., 727-8850 (Little Italy East)—One of the city’s best sources for Italian cheeses, especially Parmesan and pecorinos of all sorts and all ages. Great variety, top-notch quality. They also operate as a full-service Italian delicatessen, with pastas, meats, antipasti, biscotti, etc.  This is really one of our favourite sources for Italian specialty items, as well as one of our favourite cheese shops of any stripe.  (2013) AEB

Balila, 685 Côte-Vertu, 747-0011 (Ville St-Laurent)—Right across the street from Abu Elias (see above), Balila looks like any one of a number of shish taouk joints across town, but what sets this place apart is the fact that they serve authentic Lebanese breakfasts. Recommended: fatteh a yogurt, toasted almond, garlic, and chickpea combo, a lovely fava bean foul, and their house hommos Balila. They also make Lebanese style scrambled eggs, with things like sojouk and sumac, but on the day we had those they were a little dry. $ (2007)

Bangkok, 1616 Ste Catherine W., 935-2178 (2nd floor of The Faubourg) (Downtown)—They've been in the game for ages now, but the original Bangkok is still serving up decent Thai prepared to order at low, low prices. Added bonus: they actually make things really spicy if that’s the way you like ‘em. Recommended: Chicken Tom Yum Soup, Pad Thai, Shrimp with Eggplant, Black Pepper Squid. $ (2010)

La Banquise, 994 Rachel E., 525-2415 (Plateau)—24-hour casse-croute that serves one of the best poutines in town. Late-nights at La Banquise, when the place fills up with revelers and nighthawks of all sorts, can be particularly entertaining and for some reason the poutine always tastes better after midnight. $ (2010)

Barros Luco, 5201 St. Urbain, 270-7369 (Mile End)—Chilean eatery serving up very good empanadas, sandwiches (including their namesake), and other light meals. For a real treat try their completo—a knockwurst-like sausage served in a bun and smothered in tomatoes, avocado, and mayonnaise. Mmm. $ (2013)

Bar Sportivo, 6804 St.-Laurent, 495-0170 (Little Italy)—One of our favorite places to catch an Italian Serie A football match. Great vintage ‘60s interior, a beautiful counter, and some decent lattes. Pretty good sandwiches, too. $ (2010)

Le Bilboquet, 1311 Bernard W., 276-0414 (Outremont)—Ice cream and sorbet so popular the queues stretch down the block all summer long. Unfortunately, they’re no longer under family ownership, their prices continue to escalate at an alarming rate, and we’ve noticed considerable slippage, but it doesn’t seem to have hurt their bottom line. (2009)

Bily Kun, 354 Mont-Royal E., (514) 845-5392 (Plateau)—Sister bar to Cheval Blanc (the name means “white horse” in Czech), Bily Kun attracts a crowd that’s somewhat more well-to-do, but the tiled space (rumored to have been an ex-bathhouse) is beautiful, the beer is everything you’d expect from the folks at Cheval Blanc, and the atmosphere can be electric.

Binerie Mont-Royal, 367 Mont-Royal W., 285-9078 (Plateau)—Classic diner that has remained virtually unchanged since the 1930s, but has recently undergone a change in management. We’ll have to give them one more chance—they’ve been around so long, they deserve it—but our first visit post-management-shake-up was highly disappointing. $ (2006)

Bistro Chez Roger, 2316 Beaubien E, 593-4200—Take one successful market-fresh micro-bistro (Kitchen Galerie) and combine with an established Rosemont neo-taverne (Chez Roger), mix well, and you get Bistro Chez Roger. Comfort food done right. Recommended: spicy Montreal-style ribs platter; braised beef cheek with heirloom root vegetables; cedar-planked Salmon with warm fennel salad; cheesecake with fraises poivrée. For more thoughts on Bistro Chez Roger, take a look at this. $$-$$$ (2008)

Bombay Choupati, 5011 Blvd. des Sources (at the corner of Gouin), 421-3130 (Pierrefonds)—This one may seem a bit out of the way, and the drive along Blvd. des Sources isn’t exactly inspiring, but, make no mistake, Bombay Choupati is a “must.” In fact, we can’t emphasize enough just how much of a gem this little South Indian/Madras-style restaurant is. All the South Indian classics are on offer—such as idli (steamed semolina cakes served in a spicy vegetarian sambar, mixed vegetable tikki (spicy potato patties), and, of course, masala dosa (perhaps the quintessential South Indian dish: a lentil-flour crèpe stuffed with a potato curry and accompanied with sambar and coconut chutney—and they’re all among the very best we’ve had anywhere (London, Vancouver, Toronto, Bangalore, wherever). Also recommended, Bombay-style fruit chat and a devastatingly delicious butter chicken, which may very well have raised the bar on butter chicken in this town to new heights. Fantastic, friendly, completely homemade (right down to the yogurt (!), the fiery green chili sauce, and the tamarind sauce, which is made from fresh tamarinds (!) not tamarind pulp), and cheap, too. Top that. $ (2009)

Bombay Mahal, 1001 Jean-Talon W., 273-3331 (Park Extension)—Informal Indian restaurant that serves good dosas and channa samosas. $ (2006)

Bottega, 65 St-Zotique E., 277-8104 (Little Italy)—After some early highs (see here, for instance), Bottega seemed to run aground for a while: overall, the quality was still outstanding, but the pizzas weren't shining in exactly the same way. Well, based on our most recent experiences, happy days are here again. Bottega's always had the hardware, and now it seems like they're pushing their pizzaioli to more exacting standards. The verdict:  a return to form.  Our favourites are their Marinara and Margherita pies (or their somewhat fancier Caprese, if you prefer, as well as their Nolana, a rapini and sausage number.  Plus, keep in mind that their menu encompasses a whole lot more than just pizza, and much of it is excellent.  Recommended:  grilled scottaditi; endive salad; and the best gelati in town (especially their nut flavours).  $-$$ (2012) AEB

Boulangerie Guillaume, 17 Fairmount Ave. E., 507-3199 (Mile End)--Boulangerie Guillaume is the latest addition to Montreal's bakescape. We love the fact that they're a small operation with an artisanal approach. We love the fact that they've made sourcing high-quality organic ingredients (whenever possible) a priority. We just wish that they'd bake their bread a little more fully. On initial visits, we've found their breads expertly formed, but much too pale and undercooked for our tastes (even when we ask for them "bien cuit"). We sincerely hope that they reconsider their approach, and start producing breads with real character. After all, when you have an opportunity to be the anti-Première Moisson, might as well go for it, right? (2012)

Boulangerie Zaatar, 151de Castelnau E., 274-4775 (Villeray)—Our continuing survey of the city’s lahmatjune (the Armenian version of the Turkish and pan-Arab topped flatbread known as lahmacun) specialists recently turned up this gem. Boulangerie Zaatar may be just a tiny corner bakery with seating for just a few, but they make some truly first-rate Armenian-Lebanese treats, including lahmatjune in at least 8 varieties (including the classic minced beef version with tomatoes and onions, and their signature moitié/moitié with briny Middle Eastern cheese on one side, zaatar on the other), fusées stuffed with spinach and cheese and, our favorite, the one with three different types of cheese and minced sweet and hot peppers, and meat-stuffed cigares. $ (2007)

Brit & Chips, 433 McGill, 840-1001 (Old Montreal)--"Flurry of activity" might be too strong a phrase to describe recent developments in Montreal's fish & chips scene, but I think it's safe to say there's been a renewed interest in this classic British combo. The most recent addition to the scene is Old Montreal's Brit & Chips and they've gone to great lengths to get the details right (from the Irn Bru to the Sarson's), while leaving the door open to play with the formula (one batter features Orange Crush, another features maple syrup, and one of their fish options is salmon). Most importantly, their fish is fresh, it's sustainable (!), and the two varieties we tried (beer-battered cod and Orange Crush-battered hake) were both really good. The chips were also tasty, if a little too limp to hold up to the requisite malt vinegar. Other standouts: the tandoori popcorn shrimp could have kicked up the spice a notch, but were juicy and sweet and hard to stop eating; the steak and ale pie had a nice, flaky crust and the braised meat inside was ever so tender. More playfulness: the house dessert at the moment is a deep-fried whatever (i.e., whatever candy bar/sweet treat they have on hand--in our case, a Mr. Big bar). House beer is from The Burgundy Lion. A welcome addition to the Old Montreal dining scene. $ (2010)

Brooklyn, 71 rue St-Viateur W., 564-6910 (Mile End)--What started off as a boutique specializing in 20th-century Modern furniture and collectibles, quickly morphed into a boutique/café that still specializes in 20th-century Modern furniture and collectibles.  And while Brooklyn's taste in furnishings is often impeccable, and the selection rotates rapidly, it's their intriguing and often tantalizing selection of breakfasts, lunches, and snacks that have made them a local hangout--all the more so since they added a lovely and secluded terrasse out back.  Don't judge the boutique/café by its name (I can hear you sneering through my screen, you self-proclaimed hipster-hunter you)--the name is actually a reference to the owner's longstanding nickname.  Instead, judge it on its friendly ambiance, its creative sandwiches (smoked trout and labneh with herbs and greens, anyone?), and its definitive coffee cake, which is baked by the owner's auntie each and every day (!).  $ (2013)

BU, 361 Bernard W., 495-8258 (Mile End)—This is what we said then, back when they were located on St-Laurent:  "Swish, stylish wine bar in the Mile End neighbourhood (yes, it’s official: the neighborhood’s now 100% certified gentrified) that offers an exceptionally nice selection of wines served in 3 oz. and 4 oz. servings by the glass and by the bottle (naturally) and (surprisingly) rustic Italian food..."  Thing is, BU has packed up and moved, and now they're occupying La Dispensa on Bernard Thursdays through Saturdays.  Not exactly sure what this means, or where their cuisine is at.  It's been a while.  $$-$$$ (2009)

Buvette Chez Simone, 4869 Avenue du Parc, 750-6577 (Mile End)—Well, it sure ain’t the Skala. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Buvette Chez Simone is the latest wine bar to open up in Mile End, and it’s boldly gone where no Mile End wine bar has gone before: that mysterious two-block stretch of Park Ave. between St. Joseph and Mont-Royal, where distinguished tuxedo purveyors like Waxman rub elbows with head shops and other curiosities. When Cocoa Locale opened up on Park a few years ago, I predicted that it marked the beginning of a renaissance for the strip. Well, let’s just say that the renaissance hasn’t exactly been explosive. Buvette Chez Simone indicates that the desire is there, though: this joint has been jumping since the day they opened. And with good reason: the food, with an emphasis on mix-‘n’-match appetizers, is generally very good, and the wine selection is generally very interesting and very affordably priced. Highlights: squash and rapini risotto, spicy accras de morue, good selection of charcuterie, and roast chicken in quarter, half, or full portions. $$-$$$ (2012)

Byblos, 1499 Laurier E., 523-9396 (Plateau East)—Lovely Persian cuisine served in one of the brightest, warmest dining rooms in the city. Recommended: Fish brochettes, lamb or vegetarian “dizzy,” shish kebab, yogurt with wild garlic shoots, Iranian tea, sorbets and Iranian pastries for dessert, homemade preserves with brunch. $-$$ (2010)

Cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon, 11382 rang de la Fresnière, St-Benoît de Mirabel, (450) 258-1732 (Mirabel area)--Our last visit (back in 2009) was so totally mental it was impossible for us to imagine the PDC Sugar Shack crew having any more tricks up their sleeves, but version 2011 was bigger and better. Things started with a barrage of killer appetizers (foie gras-laced pea soup, smoked sturgeon with blini-like mini-ployes, PDC maki rolls, green salad with oreilles de crisse, etc.), followed through with three truly impressive mains (a whole smoked pork shoulder with maple syrup glaze, a whole roasted guinea hen with beer-maple gravy, and a baked lobster omelet), and climaxed with a veritable sugaring-off ceremony (tabletop tire d'érable, a maple glazed tarte tatin, and a chocolate-covered maple-peanut ice cream bombe). This is an 11-course (!) sugar shack experience that's definitely a little more bourgeois than bûcheron, but, man, is it fantastic. Frankly, the only problem is managing to get a reservation. We'd given up hope for 2011 when someone tipped us off that there were actually some openings on Thursdays and Sunday. We sent another email (, made a couple of phone calls, and the next thing we knew, we had a Sunday night reservation. Be persistent. It's worth it. $$$ (2012) AEB

Café Névé, 151 Rachel St. E., 903-9294 (Plateau)—CN appeared on the scene back in 2010 and quickly set the Plateau abuzz. Like Myriade, Vancouver/Burnaby's 49th Parallel figures prominently on their menu of offerings, but the folks at Café Névé also offer beans from such monsters of microroasting as Chicago's Metropolis. Czech lit heads might want to look up their tasty medium-roast Schweik blend. (2012)

Café Olimpico, 124 St-Viateur W., 495-0746 (Mile End)—The coffee bar formerly known as Open Da Night (although you can still find die-hards around that continue to call it by that name, or variations upon it), has lost some of its former charm to renovations (they survived a devastating fire), and their prices have crept up steadily over the last few years (their lattes were still just $1.50 a couple of years ago), but they still make one of the best lattes in town and the ambiance can be pure theater at times. $ (2013) AEB

Café Union, 148 Jean-Talon W., 273-5555 (Little Italy)—Not exactly Third Wave, but Café Union continues to be one of the best sources for locally roasted coffee. They should be--they've been at it for over 100 years now. Café Union is primarily a coffee roasting house/espresso machine purveyor, but they also serve excellent espressos at their counter. Note: they close early on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays. $ (2012) AEB

Caffè ArtJava, 837 Mont-Royal E., 527-9990 (Plateau)—Heavily hyped, laptop-friendly “coffee art”establishment. Much might be forgiven if the coffee lived up to expectations, but so far we’ve been disappointed. Third time’s the charm?

Caffè in Gamba, 5263 Park Ave., 656-6852 (Mile End)—Coffee snobs will love the selection of artisanally roasted beans from across North America, and, depending on who’s working the espresso machine, you can get an awfully fine espresso here, but what’s with the Gladiator fetish?

Caffè Italia, 6840 St.-Laurent, 495-0059 (Little Italy)—Definitely one of the best espressos in town and some real Old World charm—right down to the Proraso Italian shaving products they stock behind the counter. Excellent sandwiches, too. $ (2012)

Camellia Sinensis, 351 Emery, 286-4002 (Quartier Latin)—The best teahouse and teashop in town, bar none. The fine people at Camellia Sinensis (the scientific name for tea) have been directly sourcing and importing the world’s very finest teas and serving them with loving care out of this tiny storefront on Emery since 1998. They specialize in the four most important traditions in tea—Chinese, Japanese, Taiwanese, and Indian—but they also carry tisanes and some blends and they happen to make the best Moroccan mint tea you’re likely to find here or anywhere. (2012)

Cao Thang, 1082 St-Laurent Blvd., 392-0097 (Chinatown)—This was our favorite spot for banh mi—Vietnamese submarine sandwiches. Just check out what we had to say back in 2005 . As of March 2007, though, things are not so hot at Cao Thang. They may be under new management—it’s not clear. What is clear is that their banh mi are not what they used to be. The special sauce is non-apparent, the “spicy” ain’t all that spicy, the carrots aren’t marinated now, and the Japanese mayonnaise is not in effect. It’s hard to describe just how sad this makes us. $ (2007)

Caraïbe Delite, 4816 Park Ave., 274-4509 (Mile End)—This Guayanese restaurant has a reputation for being a carbon copy of Le Jardin du Cari (see below) and with good reason. There’s some kind of family connection between the two businesses and there’s a lot of overlap in terms of menu, atmosphere, and approach to cuisine, but Cuisine Caraïbe Delite offers a number of dishes that its forerunner on St-Viateur doesn’t, including a tropical fish roti that's a hit among devotee. $ (2007)

La Carreta, 350 St.-Zotique E., 278-5779 (Little Italy)—One of the most inviting Salvadoran restaurants in town. Good food, generous portions, friendly service, and a few vegetarian options, too. $-$$ (2009)

La Caverne, 5184A Côte-des-Neiges, 738-6555 (Côte-des-Neiges/U. de. M.)—Crazy Russian restaurant located in an odd, (you guessed it!) cavern-like basement location. Excellent Russian dumplings of all kinds, including lovely fruit ones like sour cherry for dessert. $-$$ (2009)

Chao Phraya, 50 Laurier Ave., 272-5339 (Plateau/Mile End)—We really haven’t been fair to Chao Phraya. Years ago, when I was still a vegetarian, I went to Chao Phraya a couple of times and found the veggie options limited and kind of boring. And that was it. Even though we’d long stopped being vegetarian, and even though friends of ours continued to swear by Chao Phraya, we never really gave them another shot. Maybe it was because it’s so close. When you live this close to a restaurant, it’s not really “going out” is it? In any case, we’ve finally gone back to Chao Phraya and not only do they now have a greatly expanded vegetarian menu, we’ve discovered that their meat and seafood dishes can be very good, especially their shrimp dishes. Not quite the homestyle Thai restaurant we’re desperately in search of, but… $$ (2007)

Charcuterie Hongroise, 3843 St Laurent Blvd., 844-6734 (Plateau)—Top-notch Hungarian sausages, smoked or otherwise, are the specialty here. Recommended: spicy Hungarian sausage with sauerkraut and spicy mustard served hot on a Portuguese bun. $ (2010) AEB

Cheskie, 359 Bernard W., 271-2253 (Mile End)—Reliable Kosher bakery. Recommended: challah bread, spicy onion buns, babka, and the best potato knishes in the city.

Cheval Blanc, 809 Ontario E., 522-0211 (Quartier Latin/Village)—After all these years, still one of Montreal’s very best brewpubs. I’ve been going for just about 20 years now and I still love their décor and their great house blanche.

Chez Chili, 1050B Clark St., 904-1766 (Chinatown)--First off:  if you're looking for Chili's, you'll have to look elsewhere.  Secondly:  if you're looking for Chez Chili on Clark, you'll have to look for them on de la Gauchetière instead, because that's where their entrance is.  Not one, not two, but three Chinese cuisines are on offer here:  Sichuan, Hunan, and Dongbei (Manchurian).  The menu is fairly extensive, and I've yet to explore it thoroughly, but so far my survey has turned up one exceptional dish (Sichuan lamb with onions and cumin), one very good one (a mushroom casserole that hailed from Hunan, I believe), and a few good ones (spicy chicken knuckes, twice-cooked pork, dry-fried green beans), but also a couple of duds (fried chicken strips and Dongbei-style noodles with cabbage).  Is Chez Chili the Next Big Thing for Montreal's chili-heads?  It's too early to tell, but there's promise. $-$$ (2013)

Chez Doval, 150, Marie-Anne E., 843-3390 (Plateau)—Yet another classic Portuguese restaurant and eatery featuring a wickedly good array of grilled dishes. Highlights include grilled calmari that just might be the very best in town and grilled fish specials like a whole striped bass for $14.95. No-nonsense atmosphere, good prices, excellent food. $-$$ (2009)

Chez José, 173 Duluth E., 845-8693 (Plateau)—Quintessentially funky Duluth café, specializing in empanadas, soups (including a tasty seafood stew and an outstanding gazpacho), coffee, and desserts. Recommended: all of the above, plus their smoothies and their homemade chipotle-laced hot sauce. $ (2012)

Chez Louis, 222 Place du Marché-du-Nord, 277-4670—One of the city’s very finest greengrocers, Chez Louis is not only a treasure trove, it’s also an education. You really never know what kind of exotic fruits and vegetables (including a phenomenal selection of fungi) you might find.

Chez Nino, 192 Place-du-Marché-du-Nord, 277-8902—Right next door to Chez Louis, on the south edge of Jean-Talon Market, Chez Nino is another top-notch greengrocer. Together, they make for a stunning 1-2 combination punch. AEB

Chez Nouri, 10 Ave. de Pins W., 823-9441—Certainly the quirkiest of the restos to get the nod in Gourmet’s March issue on Montreal, Chez Nouri amounts to no more than a tiny counter tucked away in one of the strange, decrepit office buildings typical of that part of the Main (one of the ones that hasn’t been given a trendy facelift in recent years). There you’ll find a small assortment of ostensibly Iranian dishes, including a falafel-like chickpea patty sandwich that may very well be the best non-falafel falafel sandwich in a city otherwise overrun by abysmal falafel. (2006)

Chez Vito, 5180 Rue Saint-Urbain, 277-1981—Our local butcher and one of the finest (and friendliest) Italian butchers in town. Not only do they offer the very best in meat at an honest price, but if you ask nicely they might even let you buy a bottle of their house reserve olive oil, direct from some relative of theirs back in the mother country. Now that’s amoreAEB

La Chilenita, 64 Marie-Anne W., 982-9212, and 152 Napoleon E., 286-6075 (Plateau)—The city’s Chilean empanada specialist. Recommended: empanadas, burritos, Chilean-style sandwiches, and their homemade salsa. $ (2007)

Les Chocolats de Chloé, 546 Duluth E., 849-5550 (Plateau)—Beautiful handcrafted chocolates by the star of the Montreal chocolate scene, now in fancy new digs on Duluth, and now with an expanded line of chocolates and, just in time for the summer of 2009, truly awesome ice cream sandwiches (!). AEB

La Chronique, 104 Laurier W., 271-3095 (Mile End/Outremont)—Although it’s one of the city’s most celebrated and most expensive restaurants, it’s got a small, cozy, and understated dining room with a relaxed feel to it and chef Marc de Canck now offers a $25 prix fixe lunch menu that offers a great opportunity to experience his revered cuisine on a budget. Highlights: quite possibly the best steak tartare in the city; fantastic soupe au poisson; succulent braised beef cheeks. Note:  they moved across the street to a new location.  $$-$$$$ (2007)

Chu Chai and Chuch, 4088 St. Denis, 843-4194 (Plateau)—Montreal is not exactly a Mecca when it comes to vegetarian restaurants of any stripe, especially Asian ones. It’s no Vancouver, it’s no New York, it’s no Toronto in that department. Chu Chai has been the premium Asian (in this case, Thai) vegetarian restaurant in Montreal for some time. Chuch is their informal café/take-out operation next door. My tolerance for these places has really waned over the years--the most recent meal I had there was passable at best. $-$$ (2009)

Au Cinquième Péché, 4475 St. Denis., 286-0123 (Plateau)—We still have yet to visit Au Cinquième Péché for dinner, but their lunch specials were once one of the steals of the century. Check it out. Lunch menu items included a roquette salad with toasted walnuts, grapes, and shaved Parmesan; a creamy Jerusalem artichoke potage; a roasted salmon dish with a tangy gremolata and a luscious polenta; and a tender, tasty roasted guinea hen suprême with braised endives and sauteed rapini. $-$$-$$$ (2010)

Club Chasse et Pêche, 423 rue St. Claude, 861-1112 (Old Montreal)—Club Chasse et Pêche is a fine dining establishment with prices to match, but if you go there for lunch you’ll find what amounts to a great deal, considering the caliber of the cuisine. On most days, you can get an entrée and a main for lunch for under $20. Not bad for a swish Old Montreal location and an ambience (dark and richly appointed) that makes you feel you ought to be puffing on a huge cigar and sipping cognac. The real attraction though is the cuisine. On a recent visit everything—from the pan-seared scallops, to the gnocchi with white truffle (quite a bit extra, but worth every penny), to the roast duck with linguini—was fantastic. The sole exception? Our dessert, which was rather disappointing (apparently the dessert menu at night is excellent though). $$-$$$ (2005)

Club Social, 180 St-Viateur W., 495-0114 (Mile End)—One of the better coffee houses in town and an excellent place to catch World Cup and European Cup soccer action, plus their lattes still only set you back $1.50. Pretty much impossible to beat. No wonder so many people have decamped from Open Da Night over the years.

Coco Rico, 3907 St Laurent Blvd., 849-5550 (Plateau)—Reliably tasty Portuguese rotisserie. Recommended: all things chicken, pasteis de nata, corn bread. $ (2009)

Le Coin du Mexique, 2489 Jean-Talon E., 374-7448 (Rosemont)—We liked it back in 2006 (see “Enfin! Notre Coin Mexicain!” ), but clearly it wasn't memorable enough to return.  $ (2006)

Le Comptoir, 4807 St-Laurent, (514) 844-8467 (Mile End)--It's official: Mile End/St-Louis, in the span of just a few short years, has become a true wine-lover's paradise (at least by Montreal standards). The neighborhood has yet another quality wine bar: Le Comptoir. This time the concept is minimal: a simple, tasteful interior; a relatively short menu that places the emphasis on snacks and smaller, informal dishes (like a house recipe BLT, made with house-cured ventrèche), but also includes some more elaborate fare (including a killer côte de porc for two); and a well-curated selection of wines, that focuses on natural, biodynamic wines. Le Comptoir prides itself on its charcuterie, all of it made on premises, and they have good reason to--their selection of saucissons secs, guanciale, coppa, and other cured meats ranks among the city's best.  In many ways, the concept is very close to Buvette Chez Simone.  Both have paired a smart, appealing, and affordable menu with a smart, appealing, and affordable wine list (wines by the glass are all under $10).  Buvette has done gangbusters business pretty much from Day 1.  Le Comptoir appears to be poised to do the same.   One final note: if Kazu was kind of a runaway for our 2010 Montreal restaurant of the year, Le Comptoir was certainly in the top three. $$ (2010)

Coralli, 8955 Meilleur St., 381-5623 (Ahuntsic)—Quite possibly the best fish market in Montreal, Coralli is certainly the best we’ve found in the wholesale/retail category. Great selection, superior quality, excellent prices. Their deals on lobster and oysters in particular are unbeatable. Well worth the trip. (2007)

La Cornetteria, 6528 St-Laurent, (514) 277-8030 (Little Italy)—Formerly a wholesale-only operation that supplied some of the city’s better cafés with their fresh cornetti and other Italian sweets, La Cornetteria transformed itself into a retail establishment serving pastries, coffees, and paninis a couple of years ago. This has been great news for pastry lovers. It's also been great news for a stretch of St-Laurent that’s otherwise a little moribund. Recommended: their namesake cornetti and what are surely the city’s best zeppole di San Giuseppe (produced and sold during Lent only) because they’re deep-fried, they’re stuffed with a truly fantastic whipped ricotta filling, they have a touch of lemon to them, and somehow, miraculously, they’re light. San Giuseppe, I’m sure, is smiling. We certainly are. (2011)

Cosmo, 5843 Sherbrooke W., 486-3814 (NDG)—In our estimation, the classic Montreal greasy spoon, which means it’s the one we’re most excited to run out to every time we have a chance. See “Two Montreal Classics in Two Days, Pt. 1: Cosmo”. Highlights include the Mish-Mash, an ungodly combination of eggs, potatoes, and charcuterie of all sorts that’s become a Montreal institution, and the Creation, which is most definitely the very best breakfast sandwich in town (there’s not much competition in this department, but with eggs, bacon, fried bologna, lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise combined into one package, the Creation is a keeper).  Unfortunately, tragedy struck earlier this year.  See our report here.  What's going on now?  We're not exactly sure--we haven't had the nerve to check in a while.  $ (2013) AEB

Côte St-Luc BBQ, 5403 Côte St-Luc Blvd. W., 488-4011 (CSL)—Another one of the city’s classic rotisserie chicken establishments, along with Rotisserie Laurier, Rotisserie Portugalia, Romados, and the like. Whereas Rotisserie Laurier’s sauce barbecue (more of a gravy than anything someone from Texas, Tennessee, or the Carolinas would recognize as barbecue sauce) has a cinnamon finish to it, Côte St-Luc BBQ’s sauce has a clove finish, and like its Outremont counterpart, its birds are juicy and flavorful, with wonderfully crispy skins. What’s more, their fries are very good and their prices are excellent. In fact, their lunch specials have got to be one of Montreal’s best lunch deals. $ (2007)

Le Couteau, 4627 rue St-Denis,  940-0444 (Plateau)--As opposed to many other new wave cafés in town, Le Couteau is not only beautifully designed, it's also spacious.  More importantly, their coffee service is meticulous--among the best in town.  Le Couteau has an espresso bar, of course, but they're among those cafés that are placing an emphasis on one-cup-at-a-time drip (right on!).  Not sure what the significance of the name is, but it makes for some awfully attractive business cards. $ (2012)

Decarie Hot Dog/s, 953 Décarie Boul., 748-7213 (Décarie)--If Montreal is a steamies town, and it most certainly is, than Decarie Hot Dog/s is definitely one of its greatest shrines. There are a lot of other places that serve Lester's hot dogs in town. There are also a lot of places that serve fries and poutine. But how many of them have the old-school charm of Decarie Hot Dog/s? $ (2010)

Dépanneur Le Pick Up, 7032 Waverly St., 271-8011 (Little Italy)--Le Pick Up is home to one of our favorite Montreal sandwiches, their grilled halloumi cheese special, and has countless other charms. A true Montreal haunt. Need more reasons to check it out? Check this out. $ (2012)

La Dépense, 7070 Henri-Julien, 273-1118, Jean-Talon Market (Little Italy)—The De Vienne family continues to branch out. First there was Philippe de Vienne’s catering operation, then there was Olive et Épices, the Jean-Talon Market shop that carries the full line of De Vienne’s phenomenal line of épices de cru, and now there’s La Dépense. Here you can find all the specialty food items, condiments, and accessories you need to complement your épices de cru-inspired adventures in international cuisine. AEB

Dic Ann’s, 10910 Pie IX, (Montreal North)—An institution. A legend even. No one makes a burger like they do. Featuring an ultra-flat patty that’s adorned only with their secret sauce, they haven’t changed much since the ‘50s. Neither have their prices. It doesn't get much more old-school than this and we wouldn't have it any other way.  They've got numerous franchises across the metro region, but we only go to their original location.  We're devoted like that.  $ (2014) AEB

Dominion, 1243 Metcalfe, 564-5056 (Downtown)--The Dominion Tavern was one of the last vestiges of Montreal's former drinking culture, a place that was still serving Export and pickled eggs in a beer hall setting and without any sense of irony well into the early 21st century. Well, those days are gone, the Dominion Tavern has been reincarnated as Dominion (a.k.a. The Dominion Square Tavern/Taverne Square Dominion), but I'm happy to report that the restoration was loving (if sometimes a wee bit cutesy) and that Downtown has gained another much-needed quality establishment. You can still just slip in for a frosty one, but Dominion is for all intents and purposes a full-fledged restaurant in a beer hall/brasserie/tavern setting (complete with a long, lovely bar, high, high ceilings, and ornate plaques for each of the provinces that made up the Dominion of Canada, hence the name). Our knowledge of the menu has been limited to lunches so far, but we can report that Dominion is serving a very respectable moules frites with bacon and apple cider, as well as extremely tasty pan-seared salmon fillet that comes with asparagus and mushrooms. We were also happy to note that they offer a Ploughman's Lunch, though we've yet to give it a go. $$-$$$ (2010)

Duc de Lorraine, 5002 Côte-des-Neiges, 731-4128 (Côte des Neiges/Université de Montréal)—This was one of our favorite confiseries/patisseries/boulangeries in town. What happened? The last time we went all the pastries were terrible. I used to love the sunroom, filled with elderly ladies having tea. Not worth a visit any more. Sad. $

l’Entrecote St.-Jean, 2022 Peel, 281-6492 (Downtown)—An ideal place to go if you don’t like being faced with a big decision. The only decision here is, “Do I get the soup and the profiteroles, or not?” The only other things on the menu are their steaks frites and their house salad. $$ (2008)

Euro-Deli Batory, 115 St Viateur W., 948-2161 (Mile End)—If I'm totally honest, and calculate this according to the following formula NUMBER OF VISITS x AMOUNT OF PLEASURE PER VISIT, Euro-Deli Batory is my favorite restaurant in the entire city. No other restaurant even comes close. I told someone behind the counter this one time and he blushed and ran back into the kitchen. Recommended: potato-cheese perogies, kielbasa, bigos, Ukrainian borscht, spring borscht (in the spring and summer). $ (2014) AEB

Fairmount Bagel, 74 Fairmount Ave. W., 272-0667 (Mile End)—We’re lucky enough to live within a 10-minute walk of three 24-hour bagel shops. All three of them are good, but Fairmount is easily our favorite. They might have all kinds of novelty bagels (I once watched, aghast, as a woman in front of me ordered a cream cheese and lox sandwich to go, on a flax bagel), but their “whites” (sesame) and “blacks” (poppy) are the best in town. See this post for more on Fairmount Bagel. AEB

Le Falco, 5605 de Gaspé, 272-7766 (Mile End)--Le Falco is one of the latest additions to Mile End's ever-expanding and apparently unstoppable restaurant/café scene. Tucked out of the way in the Garment District, this is definitely something new for Montreal: it's got a designer feel, the menu combines sandwiches with rice balls and other Japanese snacks, and the coffee (Kickapoo fair trade organic, when we visited) is prepared strictly in Japanese siphons and served in Japanese ceramic cups. M. noted that it felt like we were in Vancouver, or maybe Toronto, and I knew what she meant. On Saturdays, they offer a Japanese brunch, featuring a rice bowl with braised chicken or tofu, du puy lentils, sprouts, grated carrots, and pickled daikon, plus miso soup, coffee, juice, and a muffin (!). Good deal, and fairly tasty too, but I wish the rice bowl had less of a hippy vibe. A lot less. Maybe I just wish that it had been prepared by Kazu or David Chang. God knows we could all use more Japanese brunch. $ (2012)

Farhat, 5595 A-B Côte des Neiges, 739-4045 (store), 738-4999 (restaurant) (Côte des Neiges)—Consisting of a halal butcher shop and grocery store upstairs and a restaurant downstairs, Farhat is a full-service establishment. Farhat’s downstairs grill is one of the city’s better purveyors of Lebanese-style grilled meat sandwiches, including kafta, filet mignon, lamb, chicken, and sausage, and they’re open late. $

Le Figaro, 5200 Hutchison, 278-6567 (Outremont)—The food is okay, but the real attraction here is the charming atmosphere, not to mention perhaps the nicest street-side terrace in the city. There’s no better place to have a Pernod on a hot, lazy summer evening. $-$$ (2007)

FoodLab, 1201 St-Laurent Boul. (Downtown)—Michelle and co-chef Seth Gabrielse's new joint (since October 2011) is situated on the 3rd floor of the Sociéte des arts technologiques, near the corner of St-Laurent and Ste-Catherine, and this time they have complete control.  Part restaurant, part event space, and featuring a terrasse that is poised to be the city's go-to spot for the summer of 2012, the FoodLab has already turned heads with its inventive menus, its DIY attitude, its ambition, its excellent selection of natural wines, and its phenomenal value (many plates go for as low as $6; glasses of wine range from $7 to $12).  They also happened to be graced with just may be the very nicest terrasse in all of Montreal.  $-$$ (2014) AEB

Le Fouvrac, 1451 Laurier E., 522-9993 (Plateau East)—It’s cursed with a silly name, but this is one of our favorite gourmet specialty stores in the city.

Fromagerie Hamel, 220 Jean-Talon E., 272-1161 (Little Italy)—One of the best selections of cheese in the city, including an excellent selection of artisanal cheeses from Quebec and lait cru cheeses from Quebec, France, and elsewhere. AEB

Le Fromentier, 1375 Laurier E., 527-3327 (Plateau East)—The first artisanal bakery in town. Their breads tend to be hippie-ish, and have gone downhill in the past few years. Too sour. Too samey. Note: only open Tuesday through Sunday.

Fu Kam Wah, 1180 Décarie, 337-2262 (Ville St-Laurent)—This local Ville St-Laurent favorite might not look like much from the outside, but step inside and convince the owners/wait staff that you’re deserving of/adventurous enough for their off-menu specials and you’ll be treated to Hunan and Cantonese specialties like beef with bitter melon, oven-roasted razor clams, steamed salty chicken with pickled jellyfish, and maybe even some clay-pot duck. $$. (2007)

Furco, 425 Mayor, 764-3588, (Downtown)—Brought to you by the super busy Buvette Chez Simone crew, this new wine bar is housed in a defunct fur showroom. I knew the room back in its fur days, and I can tell you the renovations were masterfully done. Meet a friend, have an afternoon drink, you will feel like you've left the city for a few hours. Plus, if you're hungry, they have a very good kitchen serving a short but sweet menu of appetizers and mains, including some romantic dishes for two. $$ (2014)

Garde Manger, 408 Saint François Xavier, 678-5044 (Old Montreal)—Talk about a Jekyll & Hyde story. Here's what we had to say about GM then: "Boisterous atmosphere and excellent eats at this new-ish and much-needed Old Montreal hot spot. Highlights included a truly fantastic steak frites, fish ‘n’ chips-style fried calamari that were among the best we’d ever had, a delectable wild mushroom sauté, and a wickedly good homemade pecan pie (literally: it was made by the chef’s mom). Remember, if it’s too loud, you’re too old. That said, on the night we went there, Garde Manger had a great mix of people and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves, especially the girls behind us who were snapping away wildly with their digital camera." One month later, we went back and got burned. Some of the reasons for this were mundane (suddenly inflated prices, lackluster food, poor service), but topping the list of missteps was an attempt to pass off a supermarket pecan pie as the homemade pecan pie raved about above (and which we’d made a point of ordering in advance for a special occasion). What can you say about a place where one night you might get a pecan pie lovingly made by the chef's mom, the next night you get a pie lovingly made by Loblaw's ? And I'd written such a glowing review about them for the Mirror just weeks earlier, too. $$-$$$ (2006)

Gibeau Orange Julep, 7700 Décarie, 738-7486 (Décarie)—That big orange globe has been a Montreal landmark since the 1940s and their secret orange julep formula lives up to the hype. See Never Mind the Biosphere, Here’s the Gibeau Orange Julep! for more on this roadside classic. $ (2007)

Le Gourmet Burger, 1433-B Bishop, 435-3535 (Downtown)—What happened? This place was respectable, if boring, a few years ago but on my last visit was so completely awful I vow never to go back. There is a need for good burgers in MTL. $ (2012)

Gourmet Laurier, 1042 Laurier W., 274-5601 (Outremont)—Our local gourmet specialty store, and probably our favorite in the whole city. Excellent selection, good service, fair prices. This is where we most frequently get our tea, coffee, preserves, crackers, chocolate, and a whole host of other treats.

Graziella, 116 McGill St., 876-0116 (Old Montreal)—Graziella Batista's upscale Old Montreal ristorante can be pricey, but her lightness of touch with everything from her pasta to her sausages instantly won us over. One of our favorite restaurants of the year. Curious? Try the lunch special. $$-$$$ (2008)

Halal 786, 768 Jean-Talon W., 270-0786 (Park Extension)--Quality Pakistani fare. See “Halal 786”. Recommended: Lahori Chargha, Lahori Fry Fish, channa masala, karsoon sag, dal mash. $ (2006)

Havre aux Glaces, 7070 Henri Julien, 278-8696 (Little Italy)—This artisanal ice cream shop at Jean-Talon Market is one the city’s very best. We’re especially fond of their sorbets and right now it’s their citrus flavors that are killing us. AEB

JUST ADDED!  Hof Kelsten, 4524 St-Laurent Blvd. (Mile End)--Hof Kelsten is the latest addition to Mile End's boulangerie scene, and it instantly became recognized as a city-wide contender.  Baker/owner Jeffrey Finkelstein built up a reputation supplying many of Montreal's top restaurants with their bread before opening up to the public.  The approach leans towards Central Europe (caraway rye, rugelach, babka, etc.), but Hof Kelsten also happens to make our favourite baguette at the moment.  They also serve meals (lunch, brunch), but so far I've stuck to the baked goods.  (2014)  $-$$

Holder, 407 rue McGill, 849-0333 (Old Montreal)—A large brasserie bringing warmth to a sometimes eerily deserted part of town. Holder has an extensive wine list, a massive bar, which I’m happy to report serves Pimm’s (!—the first I’ve seen in Montreal), and an inviting menu. Sit yourself down, indulge in a cocktail, and have yourself some French comfort food made right. $$ (2006)

Hotel Herman, 5171 St. Laurent, 278-7000 (Mile End)—A new-ish venture opened by one of our favourite hosts in town, Dominic Goyet, formerly of Salle à Manger. The chef, Marc-Alexandre Mercier, is young and talented, a great addition to the MTL scene. His barely set goat cheese with mushrooms, crosnes and onion will live on in our memories for a very long time.  Other hits include a remarkable tartare and a lovely medley of duck.  All that plus a killer wine list, a staff who knows their wine, and a beautifully appointed room. Need I say more? Since opening, HH has become a true go-to place for us.  $$ (2013) AEB

Hwang Kum, 5908 Sherbrooke W., 487-1712 (NDG)—[Insert appropriate Wang Chung-related joke here.] Hwang Kum is presently our undisputed champ among Montreal Korean restaurants. On a recent visit (02/2007) there wasn’t a single dish that disappointed—from the bulgogi to the cold noodles with mixed vegetables to the bbq beef ribs to the seafood pancake to the bbq chicken to the sizzling bibimbap to the spicy cod soup—but those first four were especially excellent. Great Korean condiments, too, and bonus points for serving the kimchi with a pair of scissors. Very good, very affordable. $-$$ (2008)

Impasto, 48 rue Dante, 508-6508 (Little Italy)--Talk about a supergroup!  Combining the savvy, charm, and celebrity of Stefano Faita ("In the Kitchen With Stefano Faita," Entre Cuisine et quincaillerie, etc.), and the good nature and prodigious talents of Michele Forgione (formerly of Venti), along with the backing and spiritual guidance of Elena Faita (of Quincaillerie Dante and École de Cuisine Mezza-Luna fame), Impasto is surely the most anticipated opening of the year, and they're already off to the races.  We've already been twice, and both visits were impressive, from their appetizers and antipasti (do not miss their charcuterie platter), to their pasta dishes (a specialty of the Faitas, and a course Forgione absolutely excels at), to their mains and desserts.  Highlights so far have included:  their pistachio mortadella & their mousse de foie de volaille on their charcuterie platter;  corzetti with pesto, new potatoes, and green beans & heaven-sent gnocchi with tomato sauce, among their primi piatti; and a buttery, beautiful, and bodacious Florentine bistecca (easily 2 inches thick), which was said to feed 4-6, but easily fed 7, among their secondi.  An instant favourite!  $$-$$$ (2013)  AEB

Jano, 3883 St Laurent Blvd., 849-0646 (Plateau)—Dependable Portuguese restaurant specializing in grilled meat, poultry, and seafood. $$ (2010)

Le Jardin du Cari, 5554 St-Laurent, 495-0565 (Mile End)—Guayanese curry house that is famous for its rotis and its homemade scotch bonnet pepper hot sauce. Recommended: Potato-Chickpea Roti with Pumpkin, fried plantains, potato croquettes, dal soup. Formerly located on St-Viateur, Le Jardin moved just around the corner on St-Laurent to make room for Comptoir 21. $ (2009)

Jean-Talon Market, 7075 Casgrain Ave. (Little Italy)—Our very favorite market in Montreal and it just keeps getting better and better. In fact, it’s so good, it’s been known to make out-of-towners cry.

Joe Beef, 2491 rue Notre-Dame W., 935-6504 (Little Burgundy)—Joe Beef has a certain magic to it that’s only getting better with age. The franchise now includes Liverpool House and McKiernan (all three on the same stretch of Notre-Dame), but the flagship is still the first place to go if you’ve yet to have the pleasure. A 2009 visit included an absolutely mind-blowing os à la moelle that looked as though it had come off a brontosaurus. If there’s a better version of this French classic in Montreal, we’ve yet to encounter it. A January 2010 visit was even better (hard as that may be to believe): JB's Lièvre à la Royale was simply stunning, one of the most memorable dishes that we've had anywhere in the last 5 years; the chef's special smoked suckling pig with mashed potatoes, cranberries, and apple purée was the pinnacle of comfort food, and exactly what we were looking for; and both were washed down with a truly remarkable biodynamic Riesling from Alsace (wine lovers take note: Gerard Schueller, Bildstoeckle, 2007). Be forewarned: portions are huge, so don’t be afraid to order strategically. We’ve found that our ideal combo is one main and two appetizers for the two of us, but sometimes temptation gets the better of us.  $$-$$$ (2013) AEB

Joe la Croûte, 7024 Casgrain, 272-9704 (Jean-Talon Market)--The finest new addition to Montreal's bread bakery scene is located just off Montreal's finest market, where they're going toe-to-toe with Première Moisson.  Their nuage instantly became our favourite store-bought loaf in town, and we love the fact that you can buy many of their loaves by weight. Sometimes you only want just a small hunk; sometimes you want a lot.  (2013)

DEFUNCT! Le Jolifou, 1840 Beaubien E., 722-2175--Chef David Ferguson's new concept is "roadhouse," according to a recent review in the Gazette. This means two things: you'll find a lot of items that fall under the "casual" (or, more appropriately, the "upscale casual") category, and you'll find a menu that's enamored with aspects of American regional cuisine, especially that of Texas and the American Southwest. But Ferguson first made a name for himself by fusing Mexican and French cuisine, and his most recent menu continues to display a curious predilection for "Frenchifying" (not to be confused with "Frenchifrying") just about everything. Thus, you'll find tender smoked brisket on the menu, but Ferguson serves it with a red wine and veal jus reduction. You'll also find a Southwestern "cassoulet" composed of romano and navy beans, duck, smoked lamb, hominy, and poblano, which holds the potential for teasing out the affinities between a French cassoulet and the bean- and meat-based stews of the Southwest, while cleverly playing on the fact that cassoulet is a classic of the south-west of France (get it?). But instead of taking the cassoulet and pushing it the direction of, say, New Mexico, Ferguson takes ingredients typical of New Mexican cuisine (hominy, poblano peppers) and pushes them in the direction of France. So much so, that his Southwestern cassoulet tastes more like a French cassoulet than anything one would find in the American Southwest. The hominy was overwhelmed, the poblanos were barely present, and there were no traces of chili, or cumin, or any one of a number of other ingredients that might have provided a real taste of the Southwest. This is a shame--there's no shortage of traditional French cassoulets in Montreal, while the cuisine of the American Southwest is virtually non-existent, and the dish holds a lot of potential. Perplexing.  Update:  Ferguson's got a new restaurant on Beaubien these days, but I haven't dared to try it yet.  $$-$$$ (2011)

Jun-I, 156 Laurier W., 276-5864 (Mile End)—Our pick for Montreal's best sushi. Stick to the sushi/sashimi offerings, since they’re chef/owner Junichi Ikematsu’s forte. Pleasant surprises include fresh shiso leaves, yuzu/miso sauce, and rice krispies, but the real highlight is the most amazingly fresh fish you’ve ever tasted (not to mention a number of varieties we’ve never seen anywhere else in Montreal). Musts include the sashimi sampler, the spicy scallop rolls, and the absolutely to-die-for BBQ eel dynamite roll (which just might be the very best piece of sushi either of us has ever tasted). Top honors. $$-$$$ (2009)

KanBai, 1813 Ste-Catherine W., 933-6699 (Concordia Ghetto/Downtown)--Since the decline of both Niu Kee and Tapioca Thé, both of whom burned so boldly and so brightly with their szechuan chili- and szechuan peppercorn-laced menus (for years in the case of the former, but for just a matter of months in the case of the latter), we've been on the lookout for another top-notch fiery Chinese supernova of a restaurant, and it looks as though we've found it.  Michelle started raving about KanBai months ago when I was out of town--her reports were so enthusiastic, I couldn't wait to get back to town to give their menu a try.  My experience of KanBai has not been nearly as hallucinatory as my first meals at Niu Kee, but, god, has it been tasty.  Michelle was right:  this heat is on!  Recommended:  stir-fried cabbage with chilies, stir-fried szechuan-style green beans, lamb with cumin, ma po tofu, and a crazy cold noodle salad with a peanut sauce and cilantro (listed with the wall specials). $-$$ (2012)

Kaza Maza, 4629 avenue du Parc, 844-6292 (Mile End)--Our first experience of Kaza Maza and its Syrian cuisine was very strong on the food end (fattet hummus!), but not so strong on the service end, but they were having a rough day and we recognized that. Recent experiences have been nothing but perfect (food and service both) and, along with Kazu, Kaza Maza has become one of our faves of 2010. Start with a selection of 3 or 5 of their phenomenal cold mezze, choose a fattet hummus from among the hot mezze, and go from there. Outstanding. $-$$ (2012)

Kazu, 1862 Ste. Catherine W., 937-2333 (Concordia Ghetto/Downtown)--Believe the hype! We've been waiting for a real izakaya to set up shop here in Montreal for years, and finally our prayers have been answered. Not only do they offer great lunch specials, but they have an extensive dinner menu that includes some of the rice bowls served at lunch, a few specials (grilled salmon, bbq pork neck, etc.), and such highlights as chicken & pork bbq brochettes, a Japanese omelet stuffed with mashed potatoes (!) and caponata (!!), a homemade kimchi and soft tofu salad, top-notch gyoza, and a highly respectable sushi plate. In short, this joint is brimming with a certain something that Blonde Redhead once referred to as "kazuality." Be careful--it's habit-forming. It's also our 2010 Montreal restaurant of the year! $-$$ (2014) AEB

Kem CoBa, 60 Fairmount W., 419-1699 (Mile End)--Montreal's latest ice cream sensation, and they're fully deserving of the attention (and the huge line-ups).  Our absolute favourite is their sour cherry & almond milk twist soft serve (100% homemade!), but other game changers include salted butter & crème fraîche. Soft serve flavours change every 1-2 weeks. Good prices, too.  (2014) AEB

Kitchen Galerie, 60 Jean-Talon E., 315-8994 (Little Italy)—Back when they opened, a few years ago now, KG was the freshest restaurant concept we’ve encountered here in Montreal in quite some time, and not just because the premises happen to be about 50 ft. from Jean-Talon Market. Want more details? You can find a proper review here. Recommended: foie gras à la lave-vaiselle with muscat jelly, seared tuna with lardons, roasted salsify, a poached egg, and sauce bourguignonne, lobster-stuffed ravioli with asparagus. (2008)

Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan (a.k.a. Chez Apo), 420 Faillon, 270-1076 (Villeray)—The Villeray district is blessed in a number of different ways, but certainly one of its greatest blessings is that it’s home to some of the city’s best lahmadjoune bakeries, and Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan—whose name is a reflection of their Lebanese-Armenian approach to baked goods—may very well be the granddaddy of ‘em all. Two things separate Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan: their delicate, absolutely delicious dough, and the fact that they cook their flatbreads and savory pastries in a wood-burning oven. Recommended: their classic lahmadjoune with its flavorful ground beef topping; their spinach pies and flatbreads. $ (2013)

Laloux, 250 avenue des Pins E., 287-9127 (Plateau)—Michelle has moved on from Laloux (to FoodLab [see above]), but Laloux remains one of the city's classic dining rooms, as well as one of its most talented kitchens.  $$-$$$ (2010)

Lawrence, 5201 St-Laurent, 503-1070 (Mile End)--A sparrow takes flight. That's right, as you may have heard, Chef Marc Cohen and a few of his colleagues have parted ways with Sparrow, their former haunt, and struck out on their own. No bad blood, no hard feelings--just an amicable split--and it means that the short stretch of St-Laurent between Fairmount and St-Viateur now has an even deeper roster. It also means that Cohen has an opportunity to show off his chops a little more, and that's exactly what he's done. His menu is short and sweet, but it still manages to have scope, and it's loaded with tempting options (especially if you're open to all things offal). Standouts included succulent morsels of squid with samphire, skewered duck hearts with a celeriac remoulade (which may very well be the best appetizer in the city, at the moment), a hefty pork chop au jus with wilted radicchio and sautéed apples, and an offal "salad" (including kidneys, tongue, and some lovely pickled walnuts), and the steak with horseradish cream and watercress was a crowd-pleaser. All that plus a top-notch service team, a charming, extremely knowledgeable sommelière, and a positively killer wine list (including a whole slew of selections from a couple of our favorite private importers: Oenopole and la QV), and it's no wonder Lawrence has got people buzzing. $$-$$$ (2013) AEB

Leméac, 1045 Laurier W., 270-0999 (Outremont)—Posh, stylish Outremont restaurant that offers a wonderful weekend brunch, as well as a phenomenal (and remarkable) $20 after-10 P.M. menu (entrée + main). Recommended: blini with poached eggs, smoked salmon (smoked on premises), Hollandaise sauce, and caviar; salmon pot-au-feu; hanger steak and frites. $$-$$$ (2009)

Lezvos West, 4235 Décarie, 484-0400 (NDG)—The ambience is a bit stiffer and more formal than the original on Mont-Royal (which was our favorite Greek restaurant in Montreal for years), but the service is still very friendly and all that really matters is that the food is the same quality we came to expect at their flagship restaurant. Recommended: saganaki, grilled octopus salad, grilled whole fish, grilled jumbo prawns, and lots of lots of gigantes. $$-$$$ (2006)

Liverpool House, 2501 Notre-Dame W., 313-6049 (Little Burgundy)—The latest from the dynamic duo who brought you Joe Beef is another friendly, thoroughly unpretentious, and tastefully appointed gem just two doors down the road. As in the case of its predecessor, Liverpool House’s name alludes to a once-famous but now-forgotten Montreal grog house, and once again the atmosphere is built on good cheer and generous portions. When Liverpool House first opened it was billed as "Joe Beef Goes to Italy!," and on our very first visit, that's exactly what was going on: a full-on Italian menu, reinterpreted by the JBs. By the time of our next visit, things had changed drastically--there were still some Italian dishes on the menu, but really no more than you might find at Joe Beef (where the lobster spaghetti remains the signature dish). Although the folks at Joe Beef and Liverpool House continued to insist that there was a significant difference between the two restaurants, we couldn't see it anymore. No matter. Joe Beef never really could contain the throngs anyway. And the menu at Liverpool House isn't identical, it's just very much in the same (quality) vein. On a recent visit, the star of the show was an utterly luxurious rabbit tagliatelle, but everything we had was pretty great, from the immense bacon cheeseburger with pulled pork (!), to the insanely generous winter salad, to the oyster sampler, to the wine service. The only misstep were the half-assed potato wedges that came with the burger. $$-$$$ (2011)

M sur Masson, 2876 Masson, 678-2999 (Rosemont)—This tiny bistro in the heart of the Promenade Masson absolutely charmed us back in 2006. Michelle had been back for dinner, but I'd never returned since, for some strange reason. A recent visit found that M sur Masson had doubled in size, and that their brunches were still good, but not nearly as outstanding as earlier (is there any excuse for burnt toast?), and, unfortunately, the experience was marred further by some pushy, irritating service. We're hoping we just caught them on an off day. For a full review from a few years back, when we were brimming with enthusiasm, click here. $$ (2010)

Madre, 2931 Masson, 315-7932 (Rosemont) — Just a block up the street from M sur Masson is this latest restaurant from Raza’s owner and chef Mario Navarrete Jr. The table d’hote is the best deal at 3 services for $35. See this review. $$-$$$ (2007)

Maiko Sushi, 387 Bernard W., 490-1225 (Mile End)—Cut-rate, informal sushi spots have been mushrooming all over Montreal over the last few years, but this is still a city where sushi tends to be upscale. Maiko is a case in point. It has a kind of garish, ‘80s aesthetic and the sushi is priced to match. Not the most exhilarating sushi in the world--in fact, far from it--but at least it’s dependable. $$-$$$ (2006)

The Main, 3864 Boul. St-Laurent, 843-8126 (Plateau)—Schwartz’s will always be my #1 go-to spot for smoked meat, but The Main sure comes in handy sometimes. Their smoked meat may not have the spicy complexity or the juiciness of Schwartz’s, but it still packs a wallop. They’re one of only a few places in the city where you can get varenyky. They’ve got that great ‘60s-‘70s style that reminds me of Dunn’s heyday when it was still a 24-hour deli emporium at the corner of McGill College and Ste-Catherine. And they’re open till at least 3 or 4 a.m. every night, which means that sometime after the witching hour of every night they become the city’s hands-down, #1 smoked meat champion for a few hours. $-$$ (2007)

Maïs, 5439 Boul. St-Laurent, 507-7740 (Mile End)--Clearly this town is still very, very hungry for the Mexican New Wave.  Sure-fire signs?  Well, this new-school Mexican joint, specializing in tacos and cocktails, is not even two months old yet, but already they're the anointed ones in town, with two glowing reviews from the Gazette and La Presse appearing on the very same weekend, plus a CultMontreal review that appeared nearly two weeks earlier.  It used to be the traditional media gave a restaurant a few months to settle in and find their bearings before reviewing them.  Not any longer.  The social media have brought about a rush to judgment, and even dusty old newspapers are scrambling to keep up.  Anyway, if the verdict is glowing (as it has been for Maïs), this can be great news for a new establishment, although it runs to risk of generating too much hype at a time when the restaurant in question is still not capable of keeping up.  Which may have been what we experienced on our first visit to Maïs.  We went on that very same weekend as the Gazette and La Presse, the place was packed, and it seemed to us like the restaurant was struggling to keep up.  The service was friendly and attentive, but the food was extremely slow to come out.  The bartender was so overwhelmed with drink orders from the tables that he was unable to tend to the actual bar.  More importantly, while a couple of the tacos we ordered were excellent (truly!), including their classic carnitas taco and a squash, pumpkin seeds, and fresh cheese number, there were also some missteps:  an otherwise tasty pork flank taco that was undermined by some severely undercooked black beans (beyond toothsome), and an unusual arctic char taco (featuring a pan-fried filet you could find in probably a dozen "French" restaurants across town) that came in a cold, un-griddled tortilla (all the rest of our tortillas had been properly griddled first).  Are these damning mistakes?  Not at all.  The space has a great deal of charm, the kitchen's got talent, the energy in the room is addictive, the prices are very affordable, they make a killer homemade hot sauce, their cocktail of the day (a rum punch with blood orange juice) was a total hit, and we feel quite certain that Maïs will soon iron out any and all glitches and hit its stride.  Just give them a little time. $-$$ (2013)

Maison du Roti, 1969 Mont-Royal E., 521-2448 (Plateau East)—La Maison du Roti is a full-service épicerie/charcuterie that includes a cheese counter, a bread counter, and a coffee counter, along with a prepared foods counter and what might very well be the best butcher counter in the city. These guys are professionals and everything they offer is top-quality. Their selection of beef is simply breathtaking.

La Maison Kam Fung, 1071 & 1111 Saint-Urbain, 2nd floor, 878-2888 (Chinatown)—While Kam Fung isn’t about to dethrone San Francisco’s Ton Kiang as our #1 dim sum establishment, it’s the best that we’ve yet encountered in Montreal. Full cart service on weekends. Note: way more fun when you're in the presence of a kung fu great. $-$$ (2010)

Maisonneuve Market, 4375 Ontario E. (Hochelaga-Maisonneuve)—Not nearly as extensive or impressive as either Atwater or Jean-Talon, but still worth a visit if you haven’t been. Among other things, the market hall’s another beaut.

Malhi Sweets, 880 Jarry W., 273-0407 (Park Extension)—Easily our favorite Indian restaurant in town. I mean, if it’s good enough for Catherine Deneuve it’s good enough for us. Recommended: pakoras, channa samosa, lentil soup, malai kofta, vegetable korma, dal makhni, channa, baigan bharta, garlic nan. Fantastic. $ (2014) AEB

Mamie Clafoutis, 1291 Van Horne, 750-7245 (Outremont)--Mamie Clafoutis isn't exactly "new," but it's new to this list. MC has a full selection of pastries, breads, and desserts, including fruit clafoutis, but their real strength is in the Viennoiseries Dept. We recommend their chaussons aux pommes and their pains aux raisins. (2010)

Mammmm Bolduc, 4351 de Lorimier, 527-3884 (Plateau East)—MB used to be one of our very favorite places for a classic Québécois déj. As of March 2007, we’re not so sure anymore. The classic diner-style potatoes have been replaced with potatoes smothered in sauce BBQ spice mix, and where you used to get an excellent baguette that was griddle-toasted, you now get an anemic Provigo-style panini that’s been poorly toasted. $ (2007)

Marguerita Pizza, 6505 Clark, 276-6126—The city may not be the best city in the world for pizza, but it does have a good selection of pizza/focaccia bakeries and our favorite of the moment is Marguerita. They’ve been around since 1910, they still use their original recipes and proof their dough the old-fashioned way in their big, beautiful proofing cabinets, and they’ve still got their original brick oven on premises (although these days it only gets fired up as a back-up for their conventional ovens)—best yet, you can taste the tradition in their lovely pizzas. Open Monday-Saturday. $ (2009)

DEFUNCT!  Mas Cuisine, 3779 Wellington, 544-3779 (Verdun)--Opened late in 2008, Mas Cuisine quickly became one of the brightest lights in the Montreal fine dining scene. It was so good, in fact, that we named it our Montreal Restaurant of the Year. Highlights from one dinner at the time included a seared giant scallop + tempura-fried squash blossom entremets that came graced with a phenomenal tomato-based, vanilla-laced foam; and a seared fillet of cod with Gaspé shrimp and orange zest, French string beans, wilted spinach, potato purée, and jus. Mas Cuisine has changed its schedule since those days--they no longer serve lunch, and they're no longer open on weekends: they're strictly Monday-Friday--but we're happy to report that Chef Michel Ross's cuisine (which we've admired since his days at La Brunoise) is just as note-perfect as ever. Highlights from our most recent visit included an elegant cold corn chowder with rock shrimp, red pepper, and herbs; a succulent grilled octopus salad with citrus and marcona almonds; and big, beautiful pan-seared scallops with fava beans. Great service, a small, but well-chosen selection of wines, and a soundtrack that leans towards rock & soul. One of our very favorites. $$-$$$ (2011)

DEFUNCT! McKiernan, 2485 Notre-Dame W., 759-6677 (Little Burgundy)—The latest from the folks who brought you Joe Beef and Liverpool House is another hit. McKiernan (named after Charles McKiernan, a.k.a. “Joe Beef”) is a diminutive luncheonette & bar à vins and they’ve got two specialties at the moment: deluxe sandwiches, including chicken tikka with two chutneys (mint and mango), the Ari Baikowitz “All-Beef Special” (a clever riff on the legendary Wilensky Special), and a roast pork number with cheese curds and caramelized onions; and lovely appetizers, including one of the city’s very best charcuterie plates (all of it made in-house) and some very reasonably priced oysters. You can find a full report here. Oh, yeah: they also offer a special brunch on Saturdays only that is one of the city’s best. Don’t believe me? Try the deluxe sautéed shrimp, poached egg, biscuit, and gravy combo, or the smoked brisket on a homemade English muffin with eggs. $-$$ (2010)

La Mer, 1840 René-Lévesque E., 522-3003 (Village)—In the past we had great things to say about La Mer, but after our last visit we’ve decided that Montreal is just cursed when it comes to seafood, regardless of what people might say. You see, Michelle went to La Mer to buy some live Dungeness crab and she couldn’t help but noticed that all of the crabs in the tank were dead. As the guy started to bag my purchase, she mentioned that they were dead (and therefore wouldn’t be buying them, thanks)… The guy just dumped them back in the tank and walked away.

Milano, 6862 St. Laurent, 273-8558 (Little Italy)—Definitely the biggest and quite possibly the best of the city’s full-service Italian delicatessens. An excellent source for everything from Arborio rice, Italian canned tuna, olive oil, panforte, pasta, truffles, and every other Italian food item you can possibly imagine.

Milos, 5357 Ave. du Parc, 272-3522 (Mile End)—One of Montreal’s most famous seafood restaurant. Huge selection of the freshest seafood in town, all grilled to perfection. Don’t leave without having some of their Greek spoon sweets for dessert. You might as well go all the way, right? Very high-calibre, with prices to match. $$$ (2010)

Mister Spicee, a.k.a. Spicee's, a.k.a. Boulangerie Spicee, 6889 Victoria (Côte des Neiges)—Our favorite Trini, hole-in-the-wall, take-out hot spot. Homemade patties and ridiculously good doubles are the highlights here. Make sure to request the house hot sauce or tamarind sauce—or, better yet, both—with your doubles. The chicken and chickpeas double—fresh, shredded chicken curried with chickpeas, served between a couple of steaming hot, tasty flatbreads, and slathered with the two house sauces—is particularly spectacular. Plus, who can argue with a place called Mister Spicee? And why would you even want to? Because they’re really friendly, too. $ (2014) AEB

Moishe's, 3961 St-Laurent, 845-3509 (Plateau/The Main)--This venerable steakhouse, with its doorman, its stately entryway, its airport billboards, and its famously prohibitive prices, has opened its doors to a whole new clientele by instituting a very reasonable "After 9" special Thursdays through Saturdays--which is why poor schmucks like us have finally been able to crash the gates. What, exactly, is the "After 9" special, you ask? Well, it's basically a $25 prix fixe menu that includes a starter and a main, plus copious amounts of Moishe's famous dill pickles and coleslaw, and coffee and tea at the end of your meal ("It's your right," our waiter told us). And the folks at Moishe's ain't skimping on the menu either--you get your choice of about 12 options including a rib steak, a filet mignon, a kobe beef burger, a lobster roll, and the ever tantalizing "shish k baby." You get the same number of choices in the starter department, too. All in all, a very good deal, and an easy way to justify a long-overdue visit to one of the legends of the Main. But, remember, it only lasts from 9:00 PM to midnight, at which point the prices magically convert back into regular Moishe's prices (read: expensive). Now, they just need to work on that wine list of theirs... $$-$$$ (2011)

Momesso, 5562 Upper Lachine Rd., 484-0005 (NDG)—Lured to this NDG institution by its associations with Sergio Momesso and by rumors of a meatball sub, I discovered that, in fact, there is no meatball sub at Momesso, but that they make up for this in spades with the rest of their lineup of hot Italian subs. Fave of the moment: spicy Italian sausage sub. $ (2011)

DEFUNCT! La Montée de Lait, 5171 St-Laurent, (Plateau/Mile End)—This is getting confusing. Years ago, back when it was located on Villeneuve East, La Montée de Lait was just about our favorite restaurant in town. Then they closed up shop, relocated to Centre-Ville, and renamed themselves La Montée. We thought it was a bad move at the time (we could see the dark clouds of recession on the horizon) and we lost interest. Well, sure enough, La Montée has now been shuttered, the La Montée team has staged a takeover of Bouchonné, their former wine bar, and they've renamed this newest venture (you guessed it!) La Montée de Lait. Plus ça change... Will we give them another shot? We're going to wait until the dust settles first. (2010)

Moti Mehal, 1024 Jean-Talon W., 315–8801 (Park Ex)--Moti Mehal has gotten a number of excellent reviews, including this one, but thus far the flocks of people who come to this strip of Jean-Talon in search of exotic South Asian fare don't seem to have discovered Moti Mehal. Every time we've been, the place has been more or less deserted. I hope that changes because Moti Mehal's kitchen turns out some very good food, including a Chicken Balti which, in my opinion, is the city's best. $ (2009)

Moulerie, 1249 Bernard W., 273-8132 (Outremont)—As the name suggests, Outremont’s specialist for moules frites. $$-$$$ (2005)

Mycoboutique, 820 Rachel E., 223-6977 (Plateau)—Montreal’s premiere mushroom specialist. You won’t find any magic mushrooms, but you will find about 40 other varieties, some fresh, some dried, others frozen. They also carry all kinds of other mushroom-related paraphernalia for all the mycophiles and/or aspiring mushroom hunters in your life.

Myriade, 1432 rue MacKay, 939-1717,  & 251 rue St-Viateur (Downtown; Mile End)--Hands down, easily, no questions about it: our favorite new-school Montreal espresso bar. Phenomenal beans (49th Parallel, for the most part), daily specials, nice equipment, great touch, weekly coffee tastings--hell, even their drip coffee is amazing (they only make small batches, and they only keep those small batches around for a maximum of 20 minutes!). These people know what they're doing, but, equally importantly, they've created a café space that's a pleasure to go to. Our favorite Montreal café.  And this just in:  they now have a tiny counter location inside one of our favourite Mile End boutiques:  Savoie Fils.  Next level! $ (2013) AEB

The List, Pt. 2: N-Z

wing's nouilles chinoises Wing’s, Chinatown

“…an endless banquet” Montreal Food Guide, pt. 2

$ Inexpensive
$$ Mid-range
$$$ Expensive

AEB indicates a tried & true favourite

Dates in brackets indicate the last time we visited the restaurant in question. They also give some idea of how essential we find these places.

All phone numbers are area code (514) numbers unless otherwise noted.

Niu Kee, 1163 Clark, 227-0464 (Chinatown)—It's time to say Niu Kee is officially over. Long live Kan Bai!  $-$$ (2012)

Nora Gray, 1391 St. Jacques, 419-6672 (Griffintown)—Since opening in 2011, it has shot up to our must-do list for people visiting Montreal. Great wine list, a consummate host (Ryan Gray), and a super talented chef (Emma Cardarelli) make for a great night out. She has a delicate touch with pasta, and her salads rival the best in the city, but if you love meat, don't miss out on the steak or chop, whichever is available. Reserve a spot during the second seating, order a cocktail, ask for a wine recommendation, and order to your heart's content. All you have left to do is relax and enjoy your night. $$$ (2013) AEB

Norref, 4900 Molson, 593-9999 (Rosemont)--Not sure why this wasn't added earlier, because we've been frequenting Norref for a few years now, and we've mentioned them elsewhere on AEB before. Norref isn't exactly big on personality, but the seafood selection is large and, more importantly, the quality is generally very high. As a result, many of Montreal's best restaurants rely on Norref. We do too. Recommended. (2014)

Nouveau Falero, 5726-A Ave. du Parc, 274-1440 (Mile End)—A fish store in the 'hood that we've been frequenting for years.

Nouveau Palais, 281 Bernard W., 273-1180 (Mile End)--The Nouveau Palais was a legendary 24-hour Greek diner that was around from decades.  Then came the new Nouveau Palais. Same classic diner look, brand-new diner-style menu, with frequent special events and special guest chefs (like Montreal legend Nantha Kumar and his Malaysian fare!).  $-$$ (2014)

Olive et Gourmando, 351 St-Paul W., 350-1083 (Old Montreal)--This Old Montreal café/boulangerie/pâtisserie really bustles, and with good reason: the bread is made in-house and ranks among the best in Montreal; the food is fresh and thoughtfully prepared; and the atmosphere is friendly and lively. Standouts include: house-made ricotta with olive oil, herbs, and fresh toast; and a tasty cubano sandwich with ham, cornichons, and gruyère. Sight-seeing in Old Montreal? Olive et Gourmando is a must for breakfast/brunch or lunch. $ (2013) AEB

Olives et Épices, 7070 Henri-Julien, 271-0001, Jean-Talon Market (Little Italy)—The second in the growing chain of excellent De Vienne family enterprises, along with Philippe de Vienne’s original catering operation and La Dépense, their newest creation (see the Montreal Food Guide, A-M), Olives et Épices is still first in our hearts. You see, it was here that we first discovered De Vienne’s truly fantastic line of épices cru and life hasn’t been the same since (for proof of this, check out Olive et Épices). AEB

DEFUNCT! Orange Julep, 3100 Sherbrooke E., 522-3711 (Hochelaga)—This is what we had to say way back when:  "Gibeau Orange Julep might get all the press and most of the attention, but Montreal actually has not one but two classic combination orange-julep-specialist/diner, the lesser known one being the succinctly named Orange Julep on Sherbrooke in Hochelaga. Hard to believe, but even though Gibeau Orange Julep’s got six years on its East Montreal cousin, this Orange Julep actually feels like more of a time warp. Of course, this might have something to do with the golden-aged waitstaff (as opposed to the teenyboppers who sling juleps at Gibeau). Much of the pleasure of going to Orange Julep is design- and architecture-oriented—the classic carhop lines, the fantastic neon sign, the gorgeous counter, the vintage signs adorning the men’s and women’s rooms—but they make a very good sandwich, an excellent hot dog toasté, and an honest poutine, and while their julep is not as forthright as Gibeau’s, it’s the real thing, not the toxic aberration you get at chains like Orange Julius. $ (2009)"

File under "adding insult to injury":  Not only has East Montreal's Orange Julep been torn down to make way for a condominium complex, but they erected a goofy orange sculpture in front of this architectural atrocity as an homage to the earlier establishment.

DEFUNCT! La Paryse, 302 Ontario E., 842-2040 (Latin Quarter)—For a small place with a limited menu, La Paryse has tons going for it: big, beautiful hamburgers (make it a bacon & cheeseburger!), excellent veggie burgers (tofu with miso-ginger dressing), top-notch fries, and rock-solid shakes (ask them to mix their chocolate and coffee and make it a mocha! they will!!). Plus, they're just a short walk from the Cinémathèque Québécoise. $ (2009)

Patati Patata Friterie de Luxe, 4177 St. Laurent Blvd. (Plateau)—If there’s a cuter French Fry (or casse-croute , for that matter) in town, I’m not aware of it. Not only are they crispy, golden-brown and delicious, but they’re almost matchstick-size and they come in these little, old-fashioned wooden baskets. Patati Patata also makes all their burgers (including nice little tofu burgers) in mini-size. They kind of remind me of the way the Little Tavern chain of fast food restaurants—a chain that had stretched from New York to Washington, D.C. in the ‘40s and ‘50s, then finally shut down in the late ‘80s-early ‘90s—used to make them. At Little Tavern you could order individual burgers, but most people used to order their burgers by “the bag,” a half-dozen at a time. I wish Patati Patata would pick up that habit. Recommended: fries, burgers, sandwiches, shakes. $ (2012)

Pâtisserie Alati-Caserta, 277 Dante, 271-3013 (Little Italy)—Very good, “old school” Italian patisserie that’s known for its zeppole di San Giuseppe and other Italian holiday treats. They also make a very good lemon sorbetto during the summer. (2009)

Pâtisserie Mahrousé, 1010 Rue de Liège W., 276-1629 (“la Petite Belgique”)—Our favorite Middle Eastern patisserie of the moment, Mahrousé specializes in Syrian pastries and we’re particularly fond of all things pistachio there because they use only the best. (2009)

Pâtisserie Rhubarbe, 5091 de Lanaudière, 903-3395 (Plateau)--Stéphanie Labelle is making some of Montreal's very best pastries, like her heavenly, ethereal pumpkin dômes with caramel, pear, and hazelnut. Her etageres are works of art. Highly recommended. Rhubarbe has also been known to serve one of the city's best brunches (weekends only).  $-$$ (2014) AEB

Paul Patates Inc., 0760 Charlevoix, 937-2751 (Pointe St-Charles)—Seriously excellent toastés and choice fries (what do you expect from a guy named “Paul Patates”?) in a classically kétaine diner setting (“depuis 1958”), and you can wash them both down with a legendary Bertrand spruce beer (“since 1898”). $ (2013) AEB

Petit Alep, 191 Jean-Talon E., 270-9361 (Little Italy)—Petit Alep plays the younger, hipper, and, yes, smaller sibling to Restaurant Alep’s grander, more stately surroundings (which we’ve yet to experience firsthand). Their Syrian menu is very good and very reasonably priced, and the atmosphere is informal and fun. $ (2007)

Au Petit Extra, 1690 Ontario E., 527-5552 (The Village)— Long known for its classic French food and atmosphere at reasonable prices, Au Petit Extra now features a new chef (Julien Jore) who's busily bringing 21st century flair to this stalwart neighbourhood bistro.  Jore's pride and joy is his rooftop garden, and his fresh vegetables and herbs have lightened and brightened his menu considerably.  $$-$$$ (2013)

Pho Bac 97, a.k.a. Pho Bac, 1016 St Laurent Blvd. (Chinatown)—No question about it: this is our favorite phô specialist in town. Their broth is rich in flavor and their thinly-sliced steak is unbeatable. No frills Vietnamese soul food. See ”Pho Bac 97” and ”Pho #7,” our second and third posts (!). $ (2009)

Pho Lien, 5703-B Côte des Neiges (CDN)--People often get seduced by the fixings, and there's definitely something to be said about places that deliver on the ultra-fresh toppings, but, when it comes to phô, it's really all about the broth, and Michelle's current favorite can be found here, at Phô Lien. $ (2009)

Pho Tay Ho, 6414 St-Denis, 273-5627 (Little Italy)—Pho Tay Ho long ago became our #1 Vietnamese joint. Want to know why? Mostly because of their outstanding selection of bún (most of which come complete with a massive array of accompaniments: noodles, salad greens, marinated vegetables, limes, herbs, galangal root, etc.).  Need to know more? Read this review. $ (2013) AEB

Au Pied de Cochon, 536 Duluth E., 281-1114 (Plateau East)—As they say here in Montreal, hallucinant. For years, Martin Picard's justly celebrated Au Pied de Cochon was quite simply our favorite Montreal restaurant. The cuisine was totally over-the-top, but still managed to have real soul, the atmosphere was loud, exuberant, and infectious, and if you let yourself go, the results could be mind-altering (not to mention waistline-altering). A number of our meals at PDC, were among the most memorable of our lives, including this one. Anthony Bourdain wasn't the only one who got bowled over by the magnanimous M. Picard. Well, for some reason, we hadn't been to visit our friends at PDC for a while. Probably just the lingering effects of our last visit to Cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon. Anyway, we're happy to report that PDC is still fully capable of altering minds. On a recent visit, we found an extraordinary number of specials on the menu, including several made with recently arrive black truffles from the south of France, and we were part of a party of ten, so we went to town. Among the many highlights: a foie gras terrine with black truffles; a chicken roasted with black truffles under its skin; a stuffed, roasted guinea fowl with wild mushrooms; and a whole roasted pig's head + lobster platter that has to be seen to be believed (it caused customers at neighboring tables to get up and start snapping photos). The moral of the story: bring a big group, let yourself go. Outstanding. $$-$$$ (2011) AEB

Pikolo Espresso Bar, 3418 B Avenue du Parc, 508-6800 (McGill Ghetto)--Montreal's cutest new café is a keeper. They've got Phil and Sebastian coffee on tap, they're making lovely espresso drinks, and the space is beautiful. Now, the McGill crowd doesn't have to travel across town to get an exceptional coffee. Here's hoping they don't get overrun by the laptop crowd.

Pintxo, 256 Roy E., 844-0222 (Plateau)—Nice Basque-style tapas (pintxos) and an impressive wine list to complement them. Check out this article for more on Pintxo and the contemporary pintxos that are the specialty of the house. $$ (2009)

Pizzeria Magpie, 16 Maguire, 507-2900 (Mile End)--Last summer we were hearing talk of a new pizzeria about to hit the scene. "The real deal." "A real New York-style pizzeria." That kind of thing. Well, that's pretty big talk for a city as pizza-deficient as Montreal. It's not that we don't have the pizzerias. It's not that we don't have the pizza-eaters. It's just that we don't have the sense of tradition, the sense of purpose, and, as of yet, the New Wave of Pizza that's been sweeping much of the rest of the continent for the last decade, has caused little more than a ripple along the banks of the mighty St. Lawrence. Magpie gets an "A" for ambition--it's a nice looking joint, they've outfitted it with with an impressive-looking wood-burning oven, and they've put together a decent menu--but the pizzas have yet to come into their own. The combinations of toppings are fine--some are even inventive--but it's the crust that's lacking. Too much cornicione (in terms of area, not in terms of volume), too droopy in the center, light charring, not nearly enough character. Give 'em another chance? We've given them three now since they opened last fall. At this point, we'll wait until we hear of a marked improvement. Until then, we're saving our shekels for the next time we're in New York. $$ (2011)

Pizzeria Napoletana, 189 Dante E., 276-8226 (Little Italy)—A Little Italy institution (going on 70 years old!) specializing in thin-crust pizza. $$ (2006)

Los Planes, 531 Bélanger E., 277-6378 (Little Italy)—A handy pupuseria when you're in the vicinity of Jean-Talon. See "Pupusas!" Recommended: pupusas of all sorts, tamales, fresh juices. $ (2009)

Porc Meilleur, 7070 Henri-Julien, 276-4872 (Little Italy)—As their name claims, the folks at Porc Meilleur distribute some of the best pork products in the city (they raise, butcher, and smoke their own hogs on a farm somewhere outside of Montreal) from their little Jean-Talon Market storefront. Recommended: maple-smoked bacon and lardons, hams.

Le P’tit Plateau, 330 Marie-Anne E., 282-6342 (Plateau)—We’d been wanting to go to this place for years. For some reason it took until just now (January 2007). Well, the cuisine really lives up to just how appealing Le P’tit Plateau always looks from the outside, with its golden glow, and its packed house regaling themselves on southwestern French specialties. Truly one of those quintessential cute little Plateau restos. Recommended: the fish soup with its potent rouille, the baked escargots, the cassoulet, and the magret de canard with French string beans, potatoes Dauphinois, and confited giblets. Pricey, but the portions are generous and it’s absolutely worth it, and it’s a BYOB restaurant, so you can bring yourself a nice bottle of wine for a fraction of what you’d normally pay in a restaurant. $$-$$$ (2007)

Pullman, 3424 ave. du Parc, 288-7779 (McGill Ghetto/Downtown)—An upscale wine bar featuring natural and private import wines, and a great place to decompress after a long shift at the restaurant. $$ (2013)

Qing Hua, 1676 Lincoln Ave, (438) 288-5366 (Downtown)--Our Montreal Restaurant of the Year for 2009. We desperately needed good Asian dumplings here in Montreal, and Qing Hua has delivered in spades. For a more detailed account of the pleasures of Qing Hua from this spring, check this out. Keep in mind, however, that we're of the opinion that Qing Hua has actually gotten better since their move. $ (2012)

Les 400 Coups, 400 Notre-Dame East, 985-0400 (Old Montreal)--The latest and greatest undertaking from the Dynamic Duo of Patrice Demers and Marc-André Jetté (Restaurant Laloux, Newtown) is now officially their last together.  After a couple of fine years in collaboration with Marie-Josée Beaudoin (maître d'hôtel/sommelière), Demers and Jetté have decided to part ways (amicably) and move on to other projects.  What those projects are, only time will tell, but Demers has been dropping hints that a pastry shop and dessert bar is in the works.  It's been an amazing story up till now--we look forward to seeing their next chapters.  $$-$$$ (2013)

Quincaillerie Dante, 6851 St-Dominique, 271-2057 (Little Italy)—Every once in a while we come across a glaring omission in this list, a place we should have listed right from the start, but somehow neglected to include. This is one of them. Quincaillerie Dante is simply one of our favorite shops in Montreal. Part gun shop (catering to Montreal’s more tradition-minded hunters), part kitchen supply store, Quincaillerie Dante is a true original. Their selection of kitchen supplies is fantastic, their prices are fair, they often have very attractive sales, their staff is terribly knowledgeable, and we consider Dante our number one resource for canning. What more do you need? How about a cooking school? Yep, they’ve got one of those too. The courses are very popular and deservedly so—we highly recommend Elena’s pasta courses in particular. AEB

Reservoir, 9 Duluth E., 849-7779 (Plateau)— This micro-brasseur and gastropub has offered the best brunch in the city (weekends only) for the last several years, but Reservoir ain’t just about the breakfasts. Their evening fare is reasonably priced, expertly prepared, seasonal, and creative. There’s a reason the quality is remarkable all-around—chef Samuel Pinard has a pedigree that includes Au Pied de Cochon and Toqué, and, like both of those heavyweights, he cares about his suppliers and he keeps things seasonal. Recommended: homemade gravlax, with delicately roasted baby potatoes, mâche, and a Zubrowka vodka-laced sour cream, and eggs over-easy served with fatback bacon, and sautéed fiddleheads, crab guédille (think lobster roll, but with crab) with cherry tomatoes and watercress and fresh-cut fries, excellent oyster-on-the-half-shell specials, and one of the finest steak tartares in the city. They also happen to make some fine beers. $$ (2009)

Restaurant Thaïlande, 88 Bernard W. (Mile End)—This place is easy to miss due to its unassuming exterior. Once inside, the food will quickly win you over. Try the grilled fish (whole). Very good vermicelli salad and a reliable Pad Thai, too. $$ (2006)

Ripples, 3880 St. Laurent, 842-1697 (Plateau)—For 20 years, one of Montreal’s finest ice cream makers. Get the whole scoop (sorry) at “The Three “R’s”AEB

Roberto’s, 2221 Bélanger E., 374-9844 (Little Italy East)—One of the few and perhaps the finest gelateria in town. See “The Three “R’s” for more details.

Roma, 6776 St. Laurent, 273-9357 (Little Italy)—“Old school” Italian bakery and pastry shop that has nice foccacia, pizza, pastries, gelatos and sorbettos. Read more here .

Romados Rotisserie & Boulangerie, 115 Rachel E., 849-1803 (Plateau)—Yet another of Montreal’s excellent Portuguese rotisserie chicken hot spots. Romados grills their chicken, pork, and fish over a charcoal fire, then bastes each in however much spicy goodness you want afterwards. The premises also include a very good Portuguese bakery—great Portuguese rolls, great pasties de natas, etc.—and a full service deli counter. Recommended: one whole chicken, extra spicy.  They suffered a devastating fire in 2012, but they reopened this summer and, once again, the punters are lining up to purchase their Portuguese take-away.  $ (2013) AEB

Rotisserie Portugalia, 34 Rachel W., 282-1519 (Plateau) —This is one of our neighborhood mainstays. Spicy Portuguese-style grilled chicken to go or to stay. That Jeanne-Mance Park is two blocks away makes it a perfect picnic stop. Order your chicken ahead of time (2 hours ahead on weekdays, 4-5 hours on weekends)--demand is heavy. Not surprising. They're the best. Call ‘em up and be sure to make it extra spicy. $ (2010)

Rotisserie Serrano/Serrano Bar-B-Q, 161 St Viateur W., 271-3728 (Mile End) — I know, the third roast chicken place in a row. Blame the language laws. This place makes a great chicken sandwich for less than $5. See our post for the full story. $ (2007)

Rumi, 5198 Hutchison, 490-1999 (Outremont)—As the name suggests, this cozy Outremont restaurant takes its inspiration from Sufism, and specifically from the cuisines of a wide swath of land stretching west from Mesopotamia to Morocco, including Turkey and the Levant, that was profoundly touched by the Sufi Way. Thus, you’ll find everything from Iranian-style kebabs to Moroccan-style tagines. Recommended: chicken kebabs, lamb and veal kebabs, meze. $$ (2007)

SA & Fils, 4701 St. Urbain, 842-3373—It’s our “local,” so we had to include it. Their beer prices are cheap, we swear by their bacon, they make a great sandwich for under $4.00, and on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, they have a $6.99 special on their rotisserie chickens. You can find more details here .

Sabor Latino, 4387 St Laurent Blvd., 848-1078 (Plateau)--A Latin American supermercado just north of Marie-Anne which also features a small kitchen for quick meals and take-out. The atmosphere is always festive, the food is simple but fresh. Recommended: pupusas, empanadas. $

Saint-Henri, 3632 Notre-Dame W., 507-9696 (Saint-Henri/Atwater Market)--Remember how we waxed poetic about San Francisco's micro-roasting revolution last fall? Well, Montreal's latest new-school café is also its first new-school micro-roaster. Beautiful space, top-notch equipment, nice people, plus a whole slew of roasts you can't find anywhere else. Have they reached the heights of some of North America's premiere coffee roasting establishments, places like Four Barrel (S.F.), 49th Parallel (Vancouver/Burnaby), Intelligentsia (Chicago), Ritual (S.F.)? Not yet, but give 'em time. They're young, they're eager, and they just got started. $ (2011)

Sala Rosa, 4848 St. Laurent Blvd., 284-0122 (Plateau/Mile End)—For years and years this was one of our favorite tapas joints in Montreal, and one of our preferred locations for big groups and parties . On Thursdays they have a flamenco dancer with live accompaniment.  Conveniently located directly underneath La Sala Rossa, if you're planning on checking out a show.  $-$$ (2010)

La Salle à Manger, 1302 Mont-Royal E., 522–0777 (Plateau)--Samuel Pinard's restaurant instantly became our fave Montreal restaurant of 2008. Beautiful, minimal, roomy, and boisterous surroundings + an adventurous menu that is notable for its bold combinations and its outrageous, oversized group dishes + home-baked bread & killer desserts by Danny + a well-priced, well-chosen, user-friendly wine list + big bottles of Belgium's delicious Saison Dupont beer = a whole lotta love. Recommended: Spanish sherry-glazed sweetbreads, venison carpaccio, foie gras torchon, halibut with os à la moëlle croquettes, confited pork tenderloin with pan-seared sashimi-grade tuna, seared New Brunswick cod with cucumbers, tomato, mint, fried halloumi cheese, and some crazy boudin noir-laced yogurt concoction. You can find a full review here. $$-$$$ (2014) AEB

Sardine, 9 Fairmount Est, 802-8899 (Mile End)—Formerly a Janus-faced café-by-day, micro-bistro-by-night, Sardine is now just a tiny café by day and night.  Great doughnuts, a small selection of tasty sandwiches, and a first-rate Third Wave coffee counter are the draws here.  Plus, it's just so cute, and intimate.  Since the fall, Sardine has played home to an izakaya at night.  Report to follow...  $ (2014)

Schwartz’s, 3895 St Laurent Blvd., 842-4813 (Plateau)—The one, the original, Schwartz’s has many pretenders to the throne, but in our estimation it’s still #1, even with a recent, highly publicized shuffle in ownership. There’s nothing like the spicy goodness of their beef brisket (it’s their use of spices that sets their meat apart) as long as you make sure not to take yours “lean” (go with “medium” or, better yet, “fatty” for the full effect, unless your doctor strictly forbids it). There’s still nothing like the atmosphere of Schwartz’s on a typical late night, after the tour buses have cleared out. The classic combo: full-fat smoked meat sandwich or smoked meat platter, half-sour, hot cherry peppers, fries, coleslaw, black cherry cola. Check this post out for more details. $ (2013) AEB

Smoke Meat Pete, 283 1st Ave., 425-6068 (Île Perrot, QC)—If you can get over the name and the fact that they also pride themselves on real Southern BBQ, blues nights, and spaghetti with smoked meat sauce, this Île Perrot hangout is certainly the best smoked meat off the island of Montreal. It’s no Schwartz’s or Snowdon Deli, but it’ll do in a pinch if you live west of Montreal and can’t be bothered to head into town, or if you’re driving back to Montreal from Ontario and can’t bear the thought of waiting another second to get your smoked meat fix. They’re reputed by some to have the best fries in the Montreal region, too, but we’ve yet to hit them on a day where they’ve been spot-on. $ (2006)

Snowdon Deli, 5265 Décarie Blvd., 488-9129 (Décarie)—This is as close to a Miami-style deli as you’re going to find in Montreal, and, believe me, that’s no insult. You'll find a bunch of old favorites on their menu, including a respectable "old-fashioned" smoked meat sandwich, but I sure wish they had an "old-fashioned" matzoh ball soup on the menu--that neon-yellow chicken broth has gotta go. $-$$ (2009)

The Sparrow, 5322 St-Laurent, 690-3964 (to text reservations for parties of five or more) (Mile End)--This Mile End pub instantly became one of the neighborhood's prime hot spots.  It's gone through a number of changes over the years, but presently nighttime drinks and weekend brunches are specialties. $-$$ (2011)

Supermarché Rahman, a.k.a. Le Paradis de la Bière, a.k.a. The Beer Dep, 151 Laurier W., 279-2256 (Mile End)—This isn’t our “local,” the dépanneur we go to most regularly for our beer drinking needs, but it’s pretty damn close and that’s a very good thing because, with some 300 beers on offer, it just happens to be one of the true highlights of Montreal’s beerscape. Very competitive prices too.

Sur Bleury, 1067 Bleury, 866-6161 (Centre-ville)—Downtown’s been in dire need of a lunch spot with the style and chops to rival Titanic and Cluny, and now it’s got one. Sandwiches are the central attraction here and you can’t go wrong with either braised pork with Ancho chile number or the steak sandwich made with a healthy hunk of hanger steak. Their salads are also strong—the trout gravlax salad with beets was particularly good—and they make a fine poutine, too. $ (2006)

Tapeo, 511 Villeray E., 495-1999 (Jarry-Villeray)—During her April 2006 appearance at Blue Metropolis Ruth Reichl was of course pressed to name her favorite Montreal restaurants. She named a few, but at the top of the list sat Tapeo, and among other reasons she mentioned her undying affection for Mediterranean cuisines, especially when they’re well-executed. Well, after a couple of recent visits, including a lunch and a dinner, we’d have to say we’re very much in agreement with Reichl. We find it hard to get enough of Mediterranean cuisine of all stripes, especially when it’s well-executed, we’re particularly crazy about Spanish cuisine, and Tapeo’s perfectly prepared tapas dishes, its informal yet attentive service, and its lively atmosphere have instantly made it one of our favorite Montreal restaurants. Recommended: seared scallops wrapped in lard fumé with quince marmalade and Xérès vinegar; gambas with romanesco sauce; baked tilapia with rapini and almonds; and the best tortilla I’ve ever tasted. $$-$$$ (2009)

Tapioca Thé, 1672 Maisonneuve W., 223-4095 (Downtown)—This is what we had to say about Tapioca Thé in its heyday:  "With its name, its bright pink interior, and its tea bar, Tapioca Thé appears to be just another one in the growing legion of bubble tea establishments that have spread across the city in recent years. But it also happens to play home to one of the fieriest Szechwan kitchens in the city, and, as a result, it quickly became our favorite Chinese resto of the moment earlier this year. Recommended: twice-cooked pork, cumin beef, ma po tofu, gong bao chicken, stir-fried green beans, hot chili wontons, water-boiled beef. Read the full review in the Mirror here."  Then things changed.  Rapidly.  On a few subsequent visits we had a string of sub-par meals.  Dishes that we had once loved were now totally different and totally inferior, including their Gong Bao Chicken, Ma Po Tofu, and their Twice-Cooked Pork. In the case of the Gong Bao Chicken, it was overly sweet, overly starchy, and disappointing. In the case of the Ma Po Tofu, it was overly starchy, strangely perfumed (rose?), but somehow still bland. In the case of the Twice-Cooked Pork, not only did it not taste the same, not only did the pork not seem twice cooked, but the cut of pork was about 70% fat. Clearly, the magic was gone.  And so were we. $ (2008)

Titanic, 445 St Pierre, 849-0894 (Old Montreal)—When I used to work downtown, my co-workers and I would look forward to Titanic lunches all week. We would sneak out for an extra-long break and lounge in this lovely lunch spot. Great sandwiches, like the Italian sausage or the smoked mackerel, amazing daily specials, the best coffee (Café Union, of course), and delicious desserts. Don’t tell your boss! Open weekdays for lunch only. $-$$ (2006)

Tortilleria Maya, 7016 Casgrain, 495-0606--(Jean-Talon Market)—We're sad to say that Tortilleria Maya is no longer located just a hop, skip, and a jump from AEB HQ anymore, but our loss has been Jean-Talon Market's gain.  Without question, the city's best source for fresh, hot corn tortillas and locally produced tortilla chips. $ (2014)

Les Touilleurs, 152 Laurier W., 278-0008 (Mile End)—One of our favourite kitchen stores. Don’t be thrown off by the high-end ambience, Les Touilleurs has plenty of kitchen items that are perfectly affordable, and, anyway, even if you can’t afford everything, it’s still nice to just look sometimes, and the staff here are always happy to let you browse away in peace. Les Touilleurs expanded not so long ago, so they’re now twice as big as they used to be, and the new space now features a full-service kitchen which they’ll be using for cooking classes and cooking demonstrations. AEB

Trattoria Senza Nome, 9700 St. Michel, 389-6732 (Montreal North)—One of our favorite no-nonsense Italian restaurants of the last couple of years, and certainly the most unique. Senza Nome has no set hours, no menu, and no name. The food is simple but always satisfying—don’t miss out on their antipasto platter and anything involving porcini mushrooms, a mainstay of their import operation. Summer, when you can relax on their terrace under the grapevines, is the best time to visit. Call to make an appointment. You generally need a party of 6-8 to get them to open their doors. Large parties are welcome and you might just get a better deal too. Check out this review for even more thoughts/info. $$ (2008)

Tri Express, 1650 Laurier E., 52805641 (Plateau)--I'm still not sure what took us so long, especially given the fact that Michelle was a big fan of Treehouse (chef Tri's former home) when I first met her, and Laurier East is Michelle's ex-neighborhood (and one of our favorite in the city), but for some reason it took us ages to make it to Tri Express. Well, we finally made it and now we're really kicking ourselves, because (as many others have reported) it's very, very good. Intimate setting, eclectic décor, good atmosphere, but, most importantly, they've got a deft hand when it comes to sushi and sashimi, and their prices are extremely reasonable, given the high quality (especially if you let them do the driving and go with one of their specials). Is Tri Express our new #1 Montreal sushi bar? It's too early to say, but it's certainly shaping up that way. Recommended: Maki de Homard à la Tri. $$ (2009)

Trois Petits Bouchons, 4669 Rue St-Denis, 285-4444 (Plateau)—Newish bistro and wine bar in a cozy, rustic, downstairs location with exposed stone walls that’s actually trying hard to redeem St.-Denis (and succeeding). High marks for attentive service, a very good wine list, and a kitchen that’s open late. Hits: homemade pissaladière; charcuterie plate with artisanal bresaola, jamon, and saucisson; confit de canard on a bed of barley, almonds, and currants. $$ (2006)

Via Dante, 251 Dante E., 270-8446 (Little Italy)—While by day it's not much more than a modest neighborhood café, by night Via Dante is just about as perfect a trattoria as you’re likely to find, with that perfect balance of informal atmosphere, attentive service, a rock-solid wine list, and top-notch homestyle Italian (that is, if Momma used to stuff her gnocchi with mixed wild mushrooms), right down to the lovely olive oil they serve with their bread. Recommended: the abovementioned gnocchi, lobster-stuffed ravioli, otherworldly sautéed shiitakes, pancetta-wrapped filet mignon. Oh, yeah: and don't miss out on their truly expert espressos. $$-$$$ (2006)

UPDATED!  Le Vin Papillon, 2519 rue Notre-Dame (Little Burgundy)--The very latest venture from the mad geniuses behind Joe Beef is a lovely little wine bar just down the block from Joe Beef and Liverpool House that instantly became a fave of ours (and a whole lot of other discerning types).  From the moment they opened last summer, they had it all going on:  a clever, creative kitchen; a remarkable wine list that's oh-so inviting; charming, attentive service; and style & ambience to spare.  So far highlights have included a completely transcendental broccoli dish (made with specimens direct from Dave McMillan's home garden!) with lardo, roasted whole cauliflower with capers and anchovies, oeufs en gelée, poireaux aux poireaux (gently batter-fried and served with a ramps-laced tartar sauce), homemade canned mackerel (!), the city's best baba au rhum, and a superlative strawberry terrine.  Newly revamped terrasse, too.  Let the good times roll!  $$-$$$ (2014)  AEB

Wawel Patisserie, 1413 St-Marc, 938-8388 (Downtown), 7070 Henri-Julien (@ Jean-Talon Market), 279-8289 (Little Italy), and 5499 Sherbrooke W., 483-1042 (Westmount)—Wawel’s phenomenal Polish doughnuts have been a staple of ours for years. Our favorite is the plum-filled doughnut, but that apricot one is pretty amazing, too. When they come out fresh, forget about it. I was once at their St-Marc store when a tray of 20 hot plum doughnuts was brought out onto the shop floor. There were four of us in the store at the time—myself and a party of three that I didn’t know. Between the four of us we cleaned off that tray in less than a minute.

Wilensky’s Light Lunch, 34 Fairmount Ave. W., 271-0247 (Mile End)—As its name suggests, Wilensky's is a lunch counter--one that’s only open until 4:00, weekdays and Saturdays.  It's now celebrating its 80th anniversary (going on 81), and with few exceptions it looks like its been preserved in amber since the ‘40s.  One of Montreal's few truly great sandwiches, and a certified original, the Wilensky Special is still priced under $5. So what if it’s simply a pressed hot bologna and salami sandwich with mustard? Some days nothing else comes close. I recommend ordering yours with Kraft cheese and a side order of half-sours to get the full AEB-approved experience.  And don't forget to order a fountain drink.  An institution (sometimes in more than one sense), and not just because of The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz.  Beware of imitators--this is the real deal.  More on Wilenksky’s here. $ (2013) AEB

Yannick Fromagerie, 1218 Bernard W., 279-9376 (Outremont)—This fromagerie occupies the same location once held by Fromagerie Chaput. The quality hasn’t slipped a bit since the transition, and, in fact, things may very well have improved because the selection has gotten wider. Don’t be put off by the space’s boutique feel and the fact that there’s no self-service, the staff are generally very friendly and rather generous with samples. Don’t be embarrassed to ask for a number of samples. The regulars often ask for a dozen or more p’tits gouts. The best thing about Yannick is that they’re expert in offering cheeses right at the height of perfection. Don’t miss their lait cru Vacherins. Highly recommended. AEB